To plant strawberries in the country

Date: 15.10.2018, 08:23 / View: 92382
How to plant strawberries

The best landing time is August - September. Then, before the frost, the saplings will not only have time to take root, but also to grow the leaves, which contributes to the overwintering and abundant fruiting in spring. If the optimal time for planting is to plant the plants when they can get them. I plant strawberries in any frost-free period, so long as the land is not frozen. The stability of strawberries is such that in Ukraine, in principle, there are no disasters capable of destroying plants in winter. There were cases when I planted a few hours before the steady frost (and winters were harsh, without snow), however, the attacks of the plants were sporadic.

On the right - the socket, on the left - the dropout attacks occur most often due to our mistakes. As a rule, this is due to insufficient soil moisture, especially in sandy loams. Therefore, one of the most important conditions for a successful wintering is underwintering. And it concerns not only strawberries, but also other plants. Spring planting is somewhat worse than early autumn. Saplings of autumn planting are more powerful and more intensively start to grow, so the harvest on them is more substantial and ripens a little earlier.

With early autumn and late spring planting, part of the leaves on the plants is removed, leaving 1-2 of the youngest (the youngest). If you leave all the leaves, seedlings can dry out. Despite the fact that the roots of strawberries begin to work within 2-3 hours after planting, evaporation from the surface of all the leaves is so great that the root does not cope with the supply of the required amount of moisture. This is one of the most common mistakes when planting, leading to the mass death of plants. Sorry to tear off such beautiful fresh leaves? Do not be sorry! The leaves will grow, but the dried seedling is lost forever.

It is quite another thing - early spring or late autumn planting. The air temperature is low, the evaporation of moisture is minimal. Therefore, most often at this time only damaged, dry and diseased leaves are removed. If during late autumn planting all leaves are removed, the plant will die. Apparently, Despite the cold weather, there is still some kind of metabolism between the underground and above-ground parts of the strawberry. And if the leaves are missing, this exchange does not occur, and the plants die. It is worth remembering.

The root system of seedlings of any plant can be open and closed. If strawberries with a closed root system (in cups, pots, with a clod of earth, etc.), the survival rate will be almost 100%. If with an open - survival rate depends on many factors. If the seedling with a strong root system is strong and healthy, the survival rate will be much higher than that of the weak, with thin roots, afflicted with diseases. The correctness of landing is also of great importance. The root neck should be at ground level. If you plant it deeper - when it rains and watering, the growth point (heart) will be clogged, if smaller - the roots will become bare. In either case, the plants may die. For the same reason, tillage (plowing, digging) should be carried out at least two to three weeks before planting, so that the earth can be compacted, since it is difficult to guess with the depth of planting in freshly loosened soil. If the soil is loosened just before planting, it should be compacted - with rollers, tampers, legs, etc. This same procedure will relieve the roots from breaking during the precipitation of the soil.

The next important point is soil moisture. The first 10-15 days after planting, it should be close to 100% of the total capacity. This can be achieved with regular, if necessary, daily irrigation. Considerably simplifies this procedure is the installation of a drip irrigation system. After the beginning of intensive growth of leaves, the rate of watering is reduced, but so that the soil does not dry out.

There is one technique that facilitates the survival of seedlings with an open root system. They are planted not in a permanent place, but in a school according to a pattern of 5–15 cm in a row and between rows of 20–30 cm. Then they set the arcs and cover the school with film or spunbond. It is desirable to have a landing in the penumbra. If there is no such possibility and the shkolka is in the sun, it is necessary to provide airing, otherwise the seedlings may be boiled. Not everyone has the opportunity to hide the little school. It doesn't matter either. Anyway, a more compact arrangement of plants is significantly facilitates care. In shkolke seedlings are 15-20 days. During this time they increase the mass of new roots and young leaves. In the future, they are seated in a permanent place, digging up a lump of earth. After the seedlings take root, we must help them develop and bear fruit normally. This help consists in constant and timely care: weeding, watering, loosening the soil, feeding and combating diseases and pests.


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