Seeds of cornflower blue

Date: 15.10.2018, 21:49 / View: 85461

Content ✓ gladiolus planting and care Grace and beauty of gladiolus

Among the huge variety of garden herbaceous perennials, it is hardly possible to find a more solemnly ceremonial and at the same time refined flowering plant. Particularly interesting are its last varieties, capable of forming up to 30 buds in an ear, and at the same time uncover up to 15 flowers!

Of course, there is no man who would not know gladiolus - this plant is among the five most common garden flowers in the world. However, not everyone can say with certainty that cultivation was one hundred percent successful. Indeed, in its agricultural technology has its own characteristics and secrets, having learned that, you, dear readers, will undoubtedly love this flower and cope with its cultivation. After reading the article, you will solve all your problems and get answers to all, even the most difficult questions.

If the rose in the flower hierarchy is the queen, then gladiolus is undoubtedly the king. And this "person" with a difficult character. Flower growers generally recognized that the agricultural technology of gladiolus is one of the most difficult among the bulbous and herbaceous plants. And its compliance is very important to achieve the desired result. However, there are also features regarding soil, humidity, temperature, and other factors. But you need to start with the spring preparation of planting material, although even earlier, with the choice of the site and filling the soil. And in all these works there are no trifles! Decorative effect - 30 years!

Gladiolus (Gladiolus) is a perennial herbaceous bulbous bulbous plant of the family Corrida. The homeland is the tropics and subtropics of Africa, the Mediterranean, Central Asia, Western Siberia. About 250 species and 5,000 varieties are known. The life span of a separate grade gladiolus does not exceed 30 years. After all, a variety is the progeny of a single plant that is propagated vegetatively, which contributes to the accumulation of mutations and leads to degeneration. As an exception, there are varieties of long-lived, for example, Oscar (1958) or Charm (beginning of the 20th century). SELECTION AND PREPARATION OF STRAWBERRY

gladiolus photo

Good flowering of gladiolus, which fully reflects the varietal qualities, as well as the growth of offspring and the successful wintering of corm depends on these two factors.

Choosing planting material gladiolus

The best corms are with a bottom diameter of 3-7 mm, rounded, unwrinkled, shiny, clean, with one powerful central sprout. Bulbs with such signs - juveniles grown from babies, bloom well in the future and give decent offspring. After all, the peculiarity of gladiolus is that it is necessary to grow planting material from babies annually, obtained from the juvenile bulb.

Do not take large corms, as well as with a concave bottom with a diameter of more than 1 cm. These have already bloomed, sometimes more than once. They do not build up powerful inflorescences and good quality babe.

Do not buy with three or more shoots. Often it is a sign of an incurable disease - grassiness, in which flowers deform, shrink and turn green.

If the bulb reddish spots, sometimes deeply corroded or sprinkled with purple powder - it is damaged by thrips. With a strong infection it is better to burn. If the variety is valuable, it can be treated with a 4% “Arrivo” solution or another insecticide according to the instructions.

Symptoms of the bacterial scab disease are round brown shiny spots. Single ones can be cut to healthy tissue and cut with green paint.

Plants with signs of fusarium (brown spots on the bottom) are destroyed.

Early chores

Many flower growers in February clean the corms from covering scales (not babe!), Wash well under running warm water, dry, reject patients. And, wrapped in newspapers, again put in storage. At this time, planting material can be left at room temperature (only in a dry place, at high humidity they will wake up). Healthy mode and baby this mode is useful. They bloom earlier (about two weeks) and give more offspring.

In April, having deployed, it is better to shift them to low boxes on the shelves, but not under direct sunlight, and keep them there until planting. Thus, by By May corms will be vernalized and will develop high-quality small green shoots, and in addition, they will well swell the root tubercles.

Svetlana KOFANOVA, Samara

We multiply faster

If you need to propagate this particular variety, without waiting for the offspring of children, Sergey Grishchenko, head of the Botanical Garden of Leningrad State University. Pushkin, recommends corms to get out of storage in early April (but no later than two weeks before planting). When cleaning the covering scales, it is necessary to remove the central bud. As a result, two “spares” will grow. Since gladiolus is

it forms a new replacement onion well, two are formed on the two shoots that have appeared. Of course, the quality of flowering "double" corms will be much more modest than from the central shoot, the number of flowers and their size will be less. But you have to sacrifice something. The bulbs by the fall will also be formed smaller than the maternal ones, but younger ones.

Valentine BONDAR

Disinfection is important!

If corms have signs of diseases, before planting they should be treated with the preparation “Maxim” (according to the instructions).

Treat healthy planting material for the prevention of diseases with a suspension of the preparation "Fundazim" (50-60 g / 10 l of water, mix, soak for 1-2 hours).

Soaking corms in a solution of potassium permanganate does not give one hundred percent result. For pest control in recent years, I have successfully used preparations based on imidacloride - Prestige, Masterpiece, Matador (they are usually used on potatoes). Effective and "Aktara." The use of these drugs protects plants from virtually all pests: wireworm, medvedka, as well as thrips (effective when processing both planting material and the ground part). But their validity period is limited to the first half of the growing season of plants, therefore in the second half I process with “Aktellik”, “Karbofos” or “Mospilan” already on the leaves.

Igor GREECHY, scientist agronomist

By the way

Planting material purchased in February-March, before the onset of heat, is best kept in a refrigerator (cellar).

Celandine for soil

To disinfect the soil on the site selected for planting gladioli, I use celandine.

In the fall or early spring I bury the chopped greens, and if I have not grown yet, I brew 200 g of previously dried grass in a bucket of water. I insist the day, filter it, then dilute it with water (1: 2) and shed the soil in the garden. Then I dig, and in a week I spill a solution of potassium permanganate.

Nadezhda, v. Popenevo, Kirov region

Corm division

In the spring (7-10 days before planting), the corms divide into two, rarely into three parts (by the number of buds). I cut it in such a way that it is necessary to leave a part of the bottom of the bulb with the roots on it, otherwise the plant will not take root. Slices are processed with charcoal powder or brilliant green and then dried.

Planted in late April and covered with a film. I do not dig deeply in order to sprout faster, and then in the summer I gradually pour in the soil. The first flowers I appear much earlier than it usually happens. As a result, corm delenki bloom no worse than whole planting material, and by the fall they increase full replacement bulbs. Friends do not risk doing so, no matter how hard they tried to convince them. And for many years I have been supplementing the number of bulbs in this way (after all, storage losses are inevitable).

Nadezhda Lebedeva, Glazov, Udmurtia

If inflorescences - not like with the picture

Gladiolus fascinated not so long ago. Unfortunately, flower stalks grow friable, and not densely “stuffed”, as she saw at the exhibition. These are the disadvantages of care or features of varieties?

Olga Gribanova

There may be several reasons - poor planting material or improper care. It also leads to friability of inflorescences (for example, an excess of nitrogen in the soil, lack of light). Although the location of the flowers and the density of the spike may depend on the type of inflorescence of a particular variety. They are single-row - when the flowers are arranged in a row above each other; double row - the inflorescence consists of two contiguous rows (paired flowers); alternate - as double-row, only the flowers of the next row are arranged in a checkerboard pattern; spiral; bilaterial - flowers bloom on two opposite sides of the inflorescence.

Lyudmila SENKO, biologist, village Turets-Boyary, Minsk region Photo by Lyudmila KUDREYKO

Preparing kids for landing

Baby gladioli before planting must be cleaned of hard scales. And this is a very hard work. But without them, it seems to “turn to stone” and lose its germination. Therefore, after cleaning, it should be stored in plastic bags in the refrigerator, but not longer than a week.

“When children are very numerous, scaling is a problem,” considers Valentina Surikova from Moscow.

It is better to soak the planting material for a day in a solution of potassium permanganate (0.2%) or baking soda (0.1%). After such a procedure, the scales soften and move away easily.

Lyudmila Kudreiko cleans the baby before soaking in “Novosile”, “Zircon” or “Epinay” before planting. For prophylaxis, it is advised to additionally process the Maxim fungicide. And when cleaning babies should pay attention to the number of root tubercles (the beginnings of the future root system). A large baby with one or two root tubercles will develop very slowly compared to a smaller one, but with a large number of tubercles.


In order to separate a poor-quality baby from a full-fledged one, experts advise to pour it into a container with water - a good one will sink to the bottom.

And with too many children, Igor Grechanyi from p. Dimitrovo, Kirovograd region. There are ways to prepare for landing.

It spreads the same “trifle” in a single layer on a flat table and rolls it with a slight pressure from above with a rolling pin or bottle (like rolling out dough). The shell cracks, but the tubercles are not damaged. Or put the baby in gauze bags for 2-3 seconds in boiling water, then immediately - in ice water. After this treatment, it can be sown without cleaning.

See also: Technology of growing gladioli - tips from a professional grower

Unpeeled tuber buds

When disinfecting babies before planting, the concentration of salts of trace elements in the solution is reduced by 30% (from the recommended for the treatment of adult corms). Two to three times shorten the processing time.

The tuber in the scales peck up much later, sprouts appear sometimes only after 2 to 3 months.

With the integrity of the shell, the baby remains viable for up to three years or more.

When sowing babies in scales, it is effective to use hydrogel. This polymer is harmless and able to retain a lot of water, gradually

but giving it to the plants. For processing I prepare a solution: 2-3 st.l. powder pour 3 liters of water. After swelling (it takes about 20 minutes), immerse the baby in the resulting “jelly”.

Then throw it back on the sieve. A dried-up baby is a sticky clump, which is easy to rub with your hands to flowability. When sowing, the landing groove must be spilled with water, and the hydrogel again absorbs a certain amount of water.

Planted in such a way, the baby gives friendly shoots even in drought, because it receives not only proper moisture supply, but also sufficient nutrition at the very beginning of growth. In addition, it is to some extent protected from pests (wireworm, bear, scoops). So in one season I manage to get excellent juvenile bulbs with a diameter of at least 3 cm, mostly larger ones grow.



In warmer regions, corms are germinated not always, as a rule, for early cutting (grown under film covers). And in the middle lane, I always advise germinating gladioli. To do this, planting material for one or two weeks before planting in open ground is laid out in the bottom very warm (+30 degrees) room, where the air humidity is not higher than 60%. With increased humidity, roots begin to grow, which often break off during planting (you need to be very careful to handle) and do not recover.

Igor GREEK Stimulate the growth of gladiolus. 5 ways.

Processing in solution of microelements.

Keep in solution for 10-12 hours. The composition of 10 liters of rain (snow) water: potassium permanganate - 2-2.5 g; boric acid - 2-3 g; ammonium molybdate - 1 g; copper sulphate - 2-3 g; magnesium sulfate - 2 g; zinc sulphate - 0.5 g. This treatment is especially effective in sandy and domesticated marsh soils. Processing with microelements for a week or two accelerates flowering, the size of flowers and their number in the inflorescence, as well as the mass of bulgar and the number of children increase, the plant's immunity increases.

Warming up In the hot (50 degrees.) rainwater is immersed planting material (in this case it is partially disinfected). The container is wrapped and waited until it cools, but not more than 36 hours, otherwise corms may “suffocate”.

The treatment efficiency is significantly increased if, instead of water, it is heated in the infusion of malt (for example, barley). To do this, the soaked grain is germinated so that it nibbles, dried, milled and poured boiling water overnight (1-1.5 kg / Yul of water), filtered in the morning.

Soaking in the ash extract (2 tablespoons of ash / l of water, kept in it for a day) or in a solution of copper sulphate (5 g / l of water, stand overnight).

The use of drugs. Soaking the planting material immediately before planting in solutions of any stimulants, for example, “Heteroauxin” or “Gibberellin” (according to the instructions), is useful.


planting gladiolus

For the cultivation of gladioli, it is important to choose a sunny place, since a lack of lighting will affect the flowering and reproduction of the variety. At their previous place they can be returned in the third year. And do not skimp on attention during the summer - water and feed.

Good soil is half the success

Gladioli love fertile, well-groomed soil, and it doesn't matter if it is black soil, light loam or sandy loam. All of them are perfect, as long as they are cultivated. However, remember that it is undesirable to introduce organic matter, even well-rotted, directly under the planting, as plants can get sick with scab and various rot. Therefore, the site is always preparing a year before planting.

In the spring I make manure (many people like to use horse with an admixture of sawdust) and humus (it can be replaced with two to three years of compost soil). I dig and sow seeds of plants that need a lot of humus, for example, dahlias, phloxes or vegetables. For the improvement and fertilization of the plot on which I plan to plant gladioli, in September I sow any of the siderats, for example, rye, mustard or rape. And before the onset of steady frosts, I mow and bury them in the soil.

Valentina Surikov, a collector of plants, Moscow

Soil preparation replaces top dressing

If the area is clayey, but nutritious, process the soil to a depth of 15-20 cm, and it will give the plants moisture, nutrients, and will have good breathability. When digging it is necessary to take into account that the roots of gladioli penetrate deep into the soil. There is a sandy ground in our garden, a very dry place. You have to create a humus layer yourself. Every year we buy two horse manure machines,

and he lies year. Then we bring it under the previous culture. And a year later, we plant the corms of gladioli on this spot. Since for decades the soil has been replenished with organic matter, it is quite rich, therefore we do not feed the plants during the season.

Mikhail KUZNETSOV, collector and breeder, Moscow

Be careful!

Planting gladiolus in the soil, fertilized with fresh organic matter, or feed it with infusions - wait for the appearance of fusarium. Its first sign is crescent leaves.

Longitudinal strokes appeared on the petals of gladioli - a viral disease. Immediately destroy the plant, so as not to infect the rest.

Lyudmila SENKO


According to the Moscow breeder Mikhail Kuznetsov, the soil affects the corrugation of the inflorescences: the plants of the same varieties grow with more corrugated flowers on moist and more clay soil than on sand.

The secret of large flowers

Knowing it, you can get especially beautiful, exhibition flowers. But you can use this method only occasionally, because there is a risk to the health of corm. Horse manure is brought to the bottom of the planting trench; gladioli are planted directly on it. On top of them sprinkled with coarse sand and soil.

Results will exceed all your expectations!

Igor GREECHY, p. Dimitrovo Kirovograd region

Terms of planting gladiolus determine yourself

The signal to start planting is warming the soil at a depth of 10 cm to +10 degrees.

To increase the duration of flowering can be planted in separate batches with an interval of two weeks. The last landing is carried out from May 15 to June 1 (in the average strip). Then the flowering stretches until deep autumn, however, the quality of the obtained corms is significantly reduced. When using film covers, you can plant gladioli two weeks earlier. And in combination with different landing periods, this will allow admiring their flowering in the middle lane for four months.

In connection with changes in climatic conditions, it is better to start landing work as early as possible. And do not be afraid - ascended gladioli, even when falling under the late spring frosts, they normally develop and bloom in the future. Early planting allows more efficient use of winter moisture reserves, reduces the risk of plant infection by disease. The flowering is more lush, and in the inflorescences is laid on the three to five flowers more. In addition, the formation of corms and babies, as well as their size, increases by 20-30 percent.

Change the place!

It is impossible to use the same ridges or places in flower beds for growing gladioli annually. No matter how carefully and carefully they dug out plants in the fall, small tuber buds remain in the soil. They winter wonderfully and spring up together in the spring, which invariably leads to clogging and grading of the collection. In addition, various infections accumulate in the soil during re-planting.

Ivan HODAKOV, collector of gladioli, p. B. Kavendra, Penza region

Ways of planting gladioli

It is advisable to plant more deeply. Then the plants better use the moisture of the lower horizons of the soil: it protects the corm from overheating in the heat and allows you to do without garter peduncles. Particularly large corms (1 parsing) should be planted to a depth of 15 cm and even deeper. Smaller ones - by 10-15 cm, and of the 3rd-3rd analysis - by 10-12 cm. If you plan to build up plants in the future, you can plant smaller ones.

It is important to choose the right scheme and planting density. The intensity of photosynthesis, the area of ​​nutrition, and, accordingly, the availability of batteries and the phytosanitary condition depend on this. Excessive thickening leads to a decrease in flowers, inflorescences and corms, and complicates the care of plants. For the largest bulbs, the distance between the rows is about 25 cm, and between the plants in a row is 20 cm. The rest are planted closer. On heavy clay soils and chernozem, a layer of 1-2 cm of sand is poured onto the bottom of the landing furrows. This improves their water and air permeability, and when harvesting corms, they are cleaner and healthier. Avoid re-grading help tags from the sliced ​​strips of aluminum cans of beer, drinks. Ballpoint pen pushes them into the inscription, and they do not rust.

Related link: Gladiolus - planting, care and handling of bulbs - master's advice

Depending on the diameter of the corm is divided into three parses: 1 st: diameter greater than 3.2 cm; 2nd: from 2.6 to 3.2 cm; 3rd: from 1.6 to 2.5 cm. Flower growers are love for bodies and sometimes secrete and 4th analysis: from 1.1 to 1.5 cm.

Depth of landing they have different.

Tested method

There is a wonderful way to make even not very healthy corms bloom. To do this, before planting, it is enough to treat them with thio-urea (thiocarbamide). Soak for 20 minutes. in a 0.2% solution (0.25% can be used), that is, 20-25 g per 10 liters of water.


For experiment lovers

In some varieties of gladioli, not one but several flower arrows are formed, since they simultaneously sprout several buds. But these varieties are not very many. And rarely what florist does not want to see such an effect. You can achieve it by planting the bulb up the bottom or on the flank. This provokes the germination of dormant buds, and the plant kicks out several flower stalks, and consequently, forms the same number of daughter bulbs.

Valentina Surikova, Moscow

Rejuvenation just for the season

You can get a large, beautiful corm from the old one, if you plant it in a well-prepared soil and do not allow it to bloom, removing the appeared flower spike. And from the not very healthy one, if you wrap it in sphagnum moss before planting and then plant it in it.


Planting and care of the baby

It is desirable to plant it in river sand, which to a lesser extent contains parasitic microorganisms and helps to deliver oxygen to the “awakening” roots.

I make a groove with a depth of 5-6 cm (if the spring is “wet” - 3-4 cm), at the bottom I fill the sand with a layer of about 1 cm, I spill water in which manganese is dissolved, boric acid and copper sulfate (1 g / 10 l of water). The grooves are also spilled by “Fitosporin” (I prefer it in the form of a paste, the effect of which is enhanced by the elixir of fertility “Gumi”).

I turn the paste into a liquid mass, dissolving one part of it in two parts of water. And then from it I prepare a working solution (1 tbsp / 10l of water). I combine "Fitosporin" with insecticides ("Aktellik", "Fury", "Decis"), which are used to fight thrips and aphids. I plant a babe at a distance of 20-25 cm, in a row - 2-4 cm (depending on the fraction) in a checkerboard pattern, if you need to place more. I fill it with a layer of sand, gently wet it with water and cover it with soil. Mulch to maintain friability. As long as normal shoots appear (and if it is cold, even longer), plantings are covered with a spanbond, which significantly shortens the period of shoots.

Planting material with traces of fungal and bacterial diseases is destroyed. The most valuable varieties can be treated: cut the affected parts with a sharp knife, and cut the slices with green paint or alcohol. The knife after each corm is disinfected, dipped in alcohol, formalin or potassium permanganate.

Feed start at the initial stage of growth kids. At the beginning of the growing season I spend foliar feeding with molybdenum (1 g / 10 l of water). When two true leaves appear, I water the plantings with a solution of zinc sulphate (2 g / 10 l of water) per 1 square meter. In the phase of three to four leaves and then during flowering the plants need a boron trace element (2 g of boric acid per 10 liters of water per 1 square meter) to produce large corms. I make all the microelements in the form of foliar fertilizing.

Lyudmila KUDREIKO, collector of gladioli

Water properly!

The plants experience heat and drought hard, they look depressed and weak. If it is watered frequently and in small doses (for example, in a sandy area), the moisture does not reach the roots, and they begin to grow in the upper soil layer. Such specimens look painful, flowers grow small, lose brightness, and there is no reason to talk about the varietal qualities of gladioli, they are hardly identified. When watering water consumption is considered normal - 4-5 buckets per 1 sq. M. Especially you need to monitor the humidity at the beginning of the growing season.

Lyudmila SENKO

This affects the harmony

Last year, gladioli in my garden in the middle of summer were twisted and warped. I was told that I was watering the plants incorrectly. And how to do it by the rules?

Nina Krotova

Both during the sprouting of corms, and during flowering, gladioli are rich in watering. During the development of the third or fourth leaf, they form an inflorescence, and it is precisely the lack of moisture at this time that can cause the curvature and deformation of the plants. Usually, watering is stopped after the plants have faded, but exceptions are possible in warm, dry weather. After watering, a shovel next to the plant can be dug up and see if the soil got wet to the depth of the root-habitable layer and if there was enough water. Peduncles can be bent and with an excess of nitrogen in the soil. To avoid this, carefully monitor the timing of the application of mineral fertilizers, their composition.

When watering adhere to the main rule - better less, but more.

If you take these factors into account, gladioli will grow slim.

Elena BEDNOVA, collector of gladioli, Moscow

Anti-stress drugs will help.

In recent years, summer is very hot. Despite good watering, the soil dries quickly, and gladioli suffer a lot ...

Irina Popova

The fact is that in the heat the growth of the leaves is far ahead of the growth of the roots. A weak root system cannot “feed” a powerful above-ground part, which leads to a weakening of the plant, a poor growth of tubers and, of course, poor flowering. And besides, gladiolus are not prepared enough for wintering, as a result of corms are poorly stored. It is good in the heat to use anti-stress drugs "Ecosil", "Zircon", "HB-1" (spray solutions according to the instructions). They help plants survive an unfavorable period and stimulate root growth.

Need at this time and feeding: zinc sulfate (approximately in June) - 2 g / bucket of water. The solution is enough for 1 square meter; Molybdenum ammonium also contributes to the better development of the root system - 1g / 10l / 10 sq.m. Water from the watering can on the leaves.

Due to the fact that in recent years a dry and hot summer is given out, planting material (like potatoes) degenerates much faster.

Vera ZEKO, biologist

Is the family large?

Gladiolus varieties are divided into high-yielding - in one season they produce up to 150 tubers, medium-yielding and low-yielding (these give only 10-15 children). Corrugated gladiolus varieties grow very few offspring. Stimulate an increase in the number of babies can, albeit slightly, by removing the sprout that appears.

To avoid pests

I usually do not use chemicals in my garden. But I realized that thrips without them can not get rid of. When and what to process?

Nina Lesichanskaya

Appeared peduncles - a signal to the treatment of the ground part against thrips. Well established itself "Confidor-Maxi." Varieties differ in terms of flowering, and therefore need to be treated differentially.

After the appearance of the third leaf, plants should be sprayed with any of the fungicides (Topsin-M, Fundazol, Ridomil). Alternating drugs, handle every ten days. This will help gladioli stay healthy.

Soil mulching

Mulching planting gladioli is very useful. Various materials are used: humus-sypets (preferably sifted, so as not to bring the bear), chopped straw, hay.

It is better not to mulch with sawdust - when decomposed, they take nitrogen from the soil. And if you still use, add additional nitrogen fertilizers.

In the phase of 3-4 leaves with mass shoots, mulching with shredded foam is very effective. This material has a high light-reflecting ability, and this eliminates overheating of the soil and reduces moisture loss.


Accelerated method

Can a large full-grown corm emerge from the babies in one season?

Martha Andrievskaya, Grodno

Yes, by the accelerated method by the fall, I get these bulbs. For this, from March I keep the baby in the light and warm. Then I put them in bags, pour some warm water into each one and leave it in the sun. As soon as the soil thaws by 16–20 cm, I plant the sprouted baby in the garden, pour it with a solution of “Epin” (1 ampoule / 7 l of water) and cover with a film. Sprouts try to protect from return frosts. Agrotechnology during the season is important to observe, then everything will work out.


gladiolus growing

Food for gladiolus is very necessary. Especially needed feed on poor sandy and peat soils. Indeed, in the development of gladioli there are four main stages, and at each plant it needs a certain “menu”.

Food by the rules

1st stage - from the release of the first to the formation of the fourth sheet. In it

time there is an intensive growth of the vegetative mass. The first top dressing is carried out in the phase of the 2-3nd sheet with nitrogen fertilizers (25-30 g of urea / 10 l of water per 1 sq. M).

2nd stage - the formation of the fifth and sixth leaves, flower spike develops. Need a second dressing - full mineral fertilizer with trace elements (50-60 g / 10 l of water). It is made purposefully in the aisle.

3rd stage - from budding to flowering. The build-up of the “mass” at this time slows down, and intensive formation of carbohydrates occurs in the leaves. The third dressing is carried out during budding with a full mineral fertilizer (15 g of urea, 30 g of superphosphate, 15 g of potassium sulphate / 10 l of water). At the same time spend foliar feeding microfertilizers.

4th stage - at the beginning of flowering. At the end of the growing season, there is an outflow of carbohydrates from the leaves in the corm - it is growing rapidly. Plants need phosphorus-potassium nutrition (30 g of superphosphate, 20 g of potassium sulfate dissolved in 10 liters of water - per 1 square meter).

In the fourth and seventh leaf phases between mineral supplements I give organic matter - mullein infusion (1:10), horse manure (1:10) or bird droppings (1:20).

To avoid burns of the roots and leaves, before and after making the nutrient solution, water well.

Elena GOSHAVEN, Moscow

See also: Gladiolus - planting and caring for flowers, placing watering and feeding

Better fractional

Since I am a supporter of split applications of fertilizer, feed 8-10 times the aqueous solution and after a good watering. Dry fertilizers are much worse. The first 4-6 feedings (every 7-10 days) contain: 20 g of nitrogen, 15 g of potassium and phosphorus per 10 liters of water was added as calcium nitrate (5 g) and magnesium sulfate (10 g). And they are needed at the beginning of growth. If there is insufficient nitrogen gladiolus delayed growth, flower stalks are curved and leaves become pale green. A zhiruyut in its excess, their immunity is reduced, and winter storage becomes an issue.

The following two fertilizing nitrogen, calcium and magnesium rule, and phosphorus (in the form of aqueous extract) and potassium leave. This helps the plants form a beautiful rugged "spike" and provides the bright color of buds and flowers.

The last two fertilizing during flowering later grades and after only contain potassium sulfate and are designed to accelerate ripening.

Fertilizers containing chlorine is not used. Good for fertilizing once personal humates, it is better to give in the first half of the growing season. They love gladiolus and green manure, especially nettle infusion. You can use wood ash, it contains a full range of trace elements.

But Babe entire season fertilize complete mineral fertilizer once every two weeks, because it does not have an adequate supply of nutrients. But here it is important not to overdo it.

Excellent react gladioli and foliar feeding "Appin", "Cubic Zirconia", "Tsitovitom".

Valentina Surikova, Moscow

Green dressing

Gladiolus grown from small follicles and klubnepochek, during the growing season further watering green extract (1 L / 10 L water). To cook using cut grass, nettles, sorrel horse, horsetail. In the capacity of 100 l lay the vegetable mass on the third of the volume and pour water. I add a glass of "Baikal-M 1", cover with a lid and give the brew for two to three weeks. For one season of klubnepochek grow bulbs with a diameter of 1-3 cm or more, and the next year they give a complete inflorescence.

Tatyana TSYGANKOVA, Minsk.

On nutrient soil

If on the fertile area at planting contributed horse manure, and from the autumn digging - a sufficient amount of humus and phosphorus-potassium fertilizer, top dressing for the season, in principle optional, but making them possible. For example, give a good idea of ​​phosphorus-potassium fertilizers in the budding phase and after flowering. You can use the NPK or wood ash with phosphate fertilizers. This will improve and blossom, and the growing power corms mode, allowing them to better prepare for the rest period.

For foliar application microfertilizers use solutions of complex (as in the treatment of seedlings). It is good to use microelements in chelate form (complexonates). In addition, it is useful to treat the ground part with gu-mate or humisol. And at least twice in the "buttonhole" phase tsvetochnosa and after flowering.


Secret "elixir"

The plastic 15-liter vessel poured 10 liters of warm water, put 3 L candied jam (or 1 kg of sugar) and stir. I pour 100 ml of the preparation “Baikal EM-1”. For better fermentation, add baker's yeast.

Mix well, put in plastic greenhouses fermentation (8-10 days). It is necessary to put the container for the night on a chair so that the solution doesn’t cool much. Bucket mullein or chicken manure bucket half (rather, of course, horse manure) razvozhu 50-liter barrel with water and insist day. Filter into a 200-liter barrel, add a solution fermented "Baikal EM-1", made up to volume with water, close the lid and insist two-three days.

The resulting extract water the beds of the plants by direct watering (10 liters / sq. M). Last season held two such feeding my planting corms pleased with the size and health. It should be noted that combined organo-mineral supplements are more effective for plants. Therefore, the infusion obtained by adding calcium nitrate (20-25 g / 10 l), which promotes rise of the root system and maturation of follicles for the winter.

Lyudmila KUDREIKO, p. Kolyadichi. Photos of Valentina BONDAR

In the spare time

If you have a collection of gladioli, how in the garden, and when digging and storing corms and kids need labels. Durable and quality they are obtained from plastic binders. To do this, I cut them into strips 2 cm wide and 6 cm long. On one side write with the pencil the name of the variety, and on the other - the number of the variety from the catalog. I seal the labels on both sides with an adhesive tape of suitable width, then make holes with a hole punch. Attach them to the stalks or bags (boxes) easily with a thin wire.


Cut gladiolus correctly!

One of the main mistakes of gladiolus lovers is to let the whole ear spike. It is important to cut the flower stalks at the stage of two or three colored lower buds, and at the same time leave 5-7 leaves on the plant (the more they remain, the more nutrients will enter the corm, and it will be larger).

If you hesitate to cut the peduncle, all the nutrients will go to its development, and the corm will be underdeveloped. When stored, it may dry up, and if it persists until spring, a full-fledged gladiolus will not grow out of it.


Peduncles need to tie up

Gladiolus planted rows across the ridge. At the beginning and at the end of each row I drive in a peg about 1 m high. Then I cut the twine. Its length is twice as long as the row plus 20-30 cm. I tie the end of the twine to a peg, wind up the rest of my fingers and, going to the other end of the row, wind the twine of the plant according to the snake principle. Then I come back with the same “snake” wrapping plants on the other side. I twine the twine, I tie both ends. Well fixes the plants and the finished plastic mesh, which I pull on the pegs in the spring. Then gladioli sprout through its cells.


Unscrew the stems

From the flat side of the plant, make a piercing cut with a narrow knife blade. Using one hand to support the inflorescence, press with the other hand from the side opposite to the incision and break the stem, slightly bending. Then, holding the plant below the break (not to pull out the root), gently unscrew the stem of the peduncle.


Before digging, check whether gladiolus is ripe. Rake the soil and see what color is painted on the tuber scales. An unripe babe is usually white. If it is not ripe, then adult bulbs are not ready for digging.

Ideally matured tubers of plants, g after which they bloom And> 30-40 days passed Autumn work

It is important not only to dig up gladioli, but also to do it in due time. With the onset of stable low night temperatures (-3-0 degrees), gladioli are dug up. Usually in early October and no later than October 15.

Digging sequence

In determining the terms take into account the conditions of the soil-climatic zone, weather, varietal characteristics, planting time, agricultural background.

If before planting significant doses of organic fertilizers were introduced, they start harvesting earlier, as well as in a rainy, wet autumn, since all this contributes to the development of bacterial and fungal diseases (fusarium, sclerotinia, botrytis, septoria, bacteriosis). First, they dig up plants of early varieties, grown from two to three year old corms, the latter - late flowering plants, obtained from children.

The priority is due to the different resistance of bulbs of different ages to diseases. Previously dug and varieties with red, burgundy and purple flowers, as they often get sick.


Digging and pruning

Digging gladiolus shovel. I often hear that many people use forks, but in this case a lot of kids are lost. Then carefully choose from the ground corms and tubers in any container, after cutting the flowering stem with leaves. At the same time shake the ground and cut the roots.

Do not dry the corms with leaves for two reasons. First, the leaves evaporate a lot of moisture, taking it from corms, which makes them soft. Secondly, pathogens of fungal and bacterial diseases, as well as thrips, are often borne, and during storage, this whole “army” can switch to corms.


My technology

Dug and cut gladioli dry on the film. I clean my hands to less injure corms. If you do not remove the roots and the bottom immediately, you need to wait for complete drying, then the formed cork layer will protect the daughter of corms from damage.

Sick copies are collected separately and then burned. But if it is new, rare varieties - I process them fungicides (for example, the drug "Maxim", according to the instructions) and after drying stored in a separate container.

If you clean in dry weather, gladioli can not be washed, but in the rainy planting material is well washed in running water, then pickled in a solution of fungicides and dried.


"Wounded" will survive!

Inadvertently cut a corm of a varietal beautiful gladiolus with a spade. Is it possible to save her?

Galina Mikhailova

If at least some of the Donets remains on the corm, you can save. But it is important that the bulb was without signs of disease. In this case, it is necessary to thoroughly wash, dry and cover the wound with green paint. Keep only separate from other corms.

Elena GOSHAVEN, Moscow

Related link: Species gladiolus - growing and care, species and reproduction

3 drying experience: choose acceptable

Experience number 1. Healthy bulbs a couple of days dry in the greenhouse, separate the baby and cut the roots. Then I put them in plastic boxes. In one container I prepare (more concentrated than recommended) solution of insecticide from thrips. Two containers filled with clean water. The corms of varieties on-drip into the grid and - in the solution for 15-20 minutes. I allow the liquid to drain and rinse in turn in two tanks with clean water. I pour out corms into the mesh boxes, air them in the air and bring them into the room. I turn on the electric heater and fan for 3-4 days.

In poorly dried corms problems lie in the place of the cut stem. Therefore, I lay them down in the bottom. Turning off electrical appliances, I keep gladioli for another 1.5 months at a temperature of + 22-25 degrees.

Mikhail KUZNETSOV, Moscow

Experiment number 2. In good weather, the corms dry up for several hours in the open air, then lay them out in boxes (no more than two layers) and dry in a room at + 20-25 degrees. Two days later I move them to a warmer place for a week - +35 degrees (near a battery or a warm stove, controlling the temperature, for which I put a thermometer on top). Then cleaned, discarding sick corms. I fold it into a clean container and dry it at + 18–20 degrees for another month. At the same temperature, separate from the corms of dry baby, also for a month.

Elena GOSHAVEN, Moscow

Experience number 3. In the first three days after cleaning the land of corms and babe in the shade in a draft. Then for 7-10 days I lay out in two or three layers on the grids in a room with a temperature of up to 30 degrees. At the same time I turn on the gas convector and periodically the kitchen hood. If it is bad to dry, the evaporated moisture will condense between covering scales, and these are ideal conditions for the development of diseases. In the next 20 days I dry out at + 20-25 degrees.

Igor GREECHY, p. Dimitrovo

Pre-winter processing

Gladioluses in the fall folded into a shoe box and put it on the kitchen cupboard. And recently looked into it - most of the bulbs were stained, decreased in size. Are they infected?

Emma Coemets

Preventive measures can not be neglected before being put into storage! I put each batch of corms into a plastic bag and spray about 5 seconds with Dichlorvos aerosol.

Then tightly tied for 20 minutes. for the destruction of thrips.

For the same purpose, you can use the old proven method to soak the planting material before drying in the infusion of garlic: chop 1 kg of garlic, insist 2-3 hours in 10 liters of water and pour the corms for 1 hour.

It should be remembered that the ideal storage temperature is + 4-5 degrees, but not higher than 9, since thrips can only be harmful if this temperature threshold is exceeded.

One more way of struggle was learned thanks to the case .. The bought chamomile seeds turned out to be ordinary tansy. She grew up luxurious, and gladioli were planted next to her. There were no trips on them that year! Now in the summer, during flowering, I specially harvest the grass of tansy, dry land, grind and sprinkle corms when laying for storage.

With any method of wintering, planting material should be inspected monthly, remove diseased corms, and dry too moist.

If mold appears (first of all on the child), immediately sort out the planting material, soak the child for half an hour in a 1% solution of copper sulphate, then dry it, for example, above the radiator.


Store corms need at + 5-7 degrees, and humidity up to 70%. This regime must be observed, otherwise they will germinate prematurely. storage of gladioli

What and where to store?

Last year I did not manage to save half of the gladioli - they dried out. Kept in kapron stockings, hanging in a cool pantry. I was told that old corms had fallen into disrepair. But they were only bought for a year!

Maria OSIPOVA, the village of Verkhnyaya Sosnovka, Nizhny Novgorod region

Usually with small volumes the best storage method is in gauze or cotton bags (with labels) in the vegetable box of the refrigerator (up to 95% safe).

Little chance

When digging gladioli on and corms instead of kids, I found a bunch of white growths, although in spring there was a young and beautiful planting material. Is it a disease or the effects of heat?

Catherine Koregina, pgt. Shumyachi Smolensk region.

It is better to destroy such corms, because they are infected with root cancer, or by sprouting children. The disease mainly manifests itself in young corms. If 2-3 tubers are infected, they can be treated with the same preparations as with fusarium, but there are few chances to fully heal.

Lyudmila SENKO

An interesting observation: if there is synthetic fiber in the fabric used for the bags, germination and especially the germination energy of the planting material is reduced.

If there is a lot of planting material, it can be stored in wooden or plastic mesh boxes in a dry cellar with good ventilation. Many growers retain planting material, for example, in attics near chimneys, in the spaces between the balcony doors, between the window frames.

Igor GREECHY, p. Dimitrovo

Helps cellar

I keep all corms in the "Electric". It looks like a big backpack, it can be of different capacity.

Having filled it up, I hang it up on the balcony, when the onset of negative temperatures I turn on and forget about the problems! A thermostat is mounted in the device, which allows you to set and control a constant temperature inside. I usually set at + 3-4 degrees, and my bulbs hibernate comfortably, do not dry out and do not grow moldy. In this way, now I keep all my huge collection.


Even under all conditions of growing plants and planting material can get sick. But with this you can cope if you know some secrets. Specialists and amateur growers have tried them on their own plants, they have been successfully using them for years, and they are seeing results in their gardens.

Disease in the middle of winter

If in the winter I find signs of disease on corms, I definitely do a heat treatment.

I pour hot water (+40 degrees) into one tank, cold water, or pour snow into the second one. I keep the bulbs in hot water for almost 5 minutes, baby, poured into a nylon stocking, lowered for 2 minutes, then - in the cold. To keep the water cool, I put the tank in a tank with hot water.

This treatment helps to destroy all fungal diseases.

Then I dry on the newspaper, sometimes I turn on the fan. For further storage you need to lay them completely dry. As a result, I grow beautiful flowers!

Mikhail KUZNETSOV, Moscow


What to do if in early March I found mold on the bottom of some corms? Stored in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator.

Nina Krupenko, Gomel

Mold usually appears in poorly dried planting material. Either in the drawer where it was stored, it was very humid.

Corms need to be dried well, for example, putting a heating battery.

Carefully, in order not to damage, clean the bottom of the mold. After that, it is important to disinfect it: process it with brilliant green, a solution of potassium permanganate, activated carbon powder or rub it with garlic juice. It is too early to land at this time, so wrap the corms in several layers of the newspaper and store further until planting.

Lyudmila SENKO

If Fusarium

I planted gladioluses in May, and at the new place. The soil is light, sandy. Some flower stalks did not appear, and the leaves turned yellow. Why was there no bloom? Is it possible to plant the formed baby in the new season and how to process it before this?

Irina Grechiho, Vinnitsa region

Apparently, gladioli get fusarium, or dry rot, corms. But since they sprouted and gave the baby, the defeat is still weak. Yellowing and even browning of the lower leaves (as if they seemed to have dried out) also indicate this disease.

The main thing is to destroy diseased plants in time and prevent fusa-riosu from spreading next year (in no case should you keep diseased bulbs). If the baby was lying in the same box with a sick corm, and moreover, her lower leaves also began to dry, burn - and the sooner the better.

As a preventive measure, before planting, the corms of gladioli should be etched for 1-2 hours in a warm, dark solution of potassium permanganate.

Ludmila ULEY, cand. biol. Science, Yalta

For the prevention of diseases, once every 10-20 days, alternating infusions, I process the plantings with Immunocytophyte or Fitosporin. “Chemistry” I try to use as little as possible, only as a last resort, when biological methods are ineffective.

Thrips does not bloom ...

Why do gladiolus buds wither without blossoming?

Anna Zhilinskaya, Berezno village, Tver region

This often happens with a defeat trip-som. And it is important not to wait for such consequences, and prophylactically treat plants with a suitable fungicide. Do this in two or three approaches: as soon as four leaves are formed, then at the exit of the peduncle and still when dyeing the bud.


In order not to give chances to the wireworm, shortly before planting the corms in the area you need to lay the bait at a depth of 10 cm - pieces of carrot and beet. Next to each stick in the ground wand. After 2-3 weeks, remove the bait from the soil, discard them and repeat the procedure. Cultivation of gladioli in raised beds, the walls of which are made of slate dug to a depth of 20 cm, is also saved from wireworms.


In the summer, a few drops of sunflower oil are poured into the openings of its passages and immediately 1-2 liters of water. A few minutes later, Medvedka crawls to the surface and dies. At the beginning of October (before the temperature drops by less than + 10 degrees), trap pits 50–60 cm deep are arranged - one per hundred. The bottom and walls are lined with foil and filled with warm, half-broken manure - a great place for wintering pests. When steady frosts occur, manure is scattered around the site, and the pests die.

Lyudmila SENKO

See also: Care for gladioli - 10 rules USEFUL PROPERTIES OF GLADIOLUSES

Anti-aging mask.

Leaves gladiolus mince. 2 tbsp. mix with 2 tbsp. Sour cream, add 2 tsp. thick honey. Apply on face and cover with gauze for 12-15 minutes. Remove the mixture with a cotton swab dipped in lukewarm water, then apply a regular cream.

Vitamin mask for dry skin.

Chop a few leaves in a meat grinder. 2 tbsp. slurry mixed with 1 tbsp. olive oil and 1 tsp. honey Apply the mixture on face for 10 minutes, rinse with tepid water.

For oily skin.

Two or three white flowers of gladiolus chop and 2 tablespoons. pulp mixed with whipped in foam white egg. Add 1 tsp. liquid honey. Apply the mask on face for 15 minutes, rinse with cool water, then use regular cream.

Dina BALYASOVA, phytotherapeutist, Moscow Gladiolus: planting and care - sharing experience. Juvenile gladiolus bulb from a child - to update

You can update the old planting material of gladioli by obtaining juvenile (young) bulbs grown from children. This method is good for everyone: reliable, economical and, most importantly, allows you to quickly rejuvenate the variety. I'll tell you how this is done.

You can update the old planting material of gladioli by obtaining juvenile (young) bulbs grown from children. This method is good for everyone: reliable, economical and, most importantly, allows you to quickly rejuvenate the variety. I'll tell you how this is done.

Before boarding, babies must remove the shell. At the same time, it is necessary to pay attention to the number of root bumps: the more there are, the faster the baby will develop, regardless of its size.

It should be planted as soon as the leaves begin to open on the birch in a bright place. Before planting the cleaned baby, I soak it in Novosil, Zirkona, or Épinay. If the quality of planting material is doubtful, it is also worth treating it with Vitaros or Maxim fungicide.

In the grooves with a depth of 5-6 cm (if the spring is “wet”, the depth is 3-4 cm), a layer of sand is poured about 1 cm, then spilled with water, in which 1 g of potassium permanganate, boric acid and copper vitriol per 10 liters of water . This should be done, since the baby, planted in dry soil, will release moisture into it and thus the germination of root tubercles will slow down, and during hot weather, their drying can also occur.

Children land on a width of 20-25 cm, in a row - 2-4 cm (depending on the fraction) in a checkerboard pattern. Landings are filled the same as at the bottom, we sing sand, again shed water

and covered with soil. All varieties are planted separately. Landing is desirable to mulch the peat. straw cutting, humus or sawdust to maintain soil looseness.

How to accelerate development

The development of crops from "kids" is quite slow, the first sheet is formed after 20-30 days. This is due to a poorly developed root system. To speed up the process, planting up to normal shoots (and if it is cold, and longer) is desirable to cover the span-bond.

Roots in the initial stage contribute to foliar feeding. At the beginning of the growing season, molybdenum is sprayed on the leaves (1 g per 10 liters of water per 10 sq. M). When two true leaves appear, the plants are fed with a solution of zinc sulfate (2 g per 10 liters of water per 1 sq. M). In the phase of 3-4 leaves and then during flowering, boron is added to produce large bulbs (2 g of boric acid per 10 liters of water per 1 sq. M).

From root dressings using microbiological fertilizer. I pour 10 liters of warm water into a plastic 15-liter container, put 3 liters of candied jam (or 1 kg of sugar), mix and add 100 ml of the preparation “Baikal EM-1”. For better fermentation, add baker's yeast. The whole solution is well stirred and put in a film greenhouse for 8-10 days. Capacity must be raised from the ground to a chair so that the solution does not cool overnight. Next, take a mullein bucket or 0.5 bucket of chicken manure, divorce it in a 50-liter barrel and leave for a day. Then the mullein infusion is filtered into a 200-liter barrel, a solution with fermented "Baikal EM-1" is added, topped up with water to its full volume, closed with a lid and infused for another 2-3 days. In the resulting solution, add calcium nitrate (20-25 g per 10 liters per square meter), which contributes to the growth of the root system. With the fertilizer prepared in this way, I water the beds from the watering can directly over the plants, at the rate of 10 liters per 1 square meter. m. During the season should be 2-3 such feeding.

For the prevention of fungal diseases, it is useful to shed the soil with the drug "Fitosporin" best of all in the form of a paste, the effect of which is enhanced by the elixir of fertility "Gummi". It is diluted with water (1: 3). For strait furrows before planting use 1 tbsp. l liquid drug in 10 liters of water. The same concentration is maintained when spraying or watering gladioli during the growing season with an interval of 2-3 weeks. “Fitosporin” is compatible with insecticides (“Aktelik”, “Fury”, “Detsis”), which are used to combat trip-si and aphids.

You do not need to drink often, but offi-but, and even this, it is necessary to loosen the soil if plantings have not been mulched. For the prevention of diseases, periodically (an interval of 10-20 days, preferably alternating solutions), I process the plantings with Immunocytophyte or Fi-Tosporin. I try to use “Chemistry” as little as possible, only as a last resort, when biological methods are not effective.

The final

Dig young onions grown from children, in the last turn, after adult bulbs and stored in the same way as the usual planting material.

© Author: Lyudmila Mikhailovna KUDREIKO, florist Gladioli with a guarantee

My summer cottage from early spring to late autumn is immersed in the colors and fragrances of various colors. I admire everyone, but I give preference to proud gladioli. I will try to share my secrets of caring for them.

Bulb care

It is necessary to learn the following: successful preservation of corms in the winter depends on the correctly chosen period of cleaning of gladioli, then in the spring we will receive healthy planting material.

Warm autumn weather and the introduction of other fertilizers at the end of the phosphate-potassium season may somewhat accelerate the ripening period of replacing tubers of gladioli.

The cold rainy weather in the autumn contributes to the development of all kinds of fungal diseases, so tighten with cleaning is impossible.

I dig up gladioli at the end of September - early October, when the leaves of the plants begin to turn yellow. After digging up the bushes with a fork, I take the plants by the stems with one hand and, holding them, gently shake them off and put them on the film without any extra earth.

Then I cut the stem under the base or leave a small stump (0.5-0.7 cm). You can break out the stem under the base of the corm: holding it in one hand, with the other, you must sharply tilt the stem either to the left or to the right. It separates easily, without much effort.

After removing the stem, I take the corms in my left hand, and with my right thumb I press hard on the edge of the old maternal corm. If this is not done immediately, then after 2-3 days it will be difficult to separate.

I wash the bulbs of gladiolus, process it with a strong solution of potassium permanganate and lay it out in a single layer in wooden boxes with sides so that the air circulates well and put it in a warm place. Although, if the weather is clear, you can dry the corms in the sun for three days. In general, drying should be done in the shortest time - so the tubers are stored better. By the way, I sometimes use an ordinary hair dryer for this purpose.

Well-dried onions are stored in a cardboard box on the balcony, although it can be done in the refrigerator or in a dry cellar. You just need to remember that the optimum temperature for planting material of gladioli is 5-7 degrees of heat,

The board

Every 2-3 years it is worth treating corms with fungicides to prevent the development of fungal diseases.

Term life - 5 years

Some amateur flower growers (by this I also sinned), because of inexperience, have replaced replacement corms for many years in a row. As a result, the flower stalks of plants become smaller and smaller every year, the sizes of the flowers and the ears lose color intensity, the susceptibility to diseases increases and the ability to reproduce decreases. And for that moment comes when the corms just do not germinate. There is nothing surprising in this: they have been released for a period of not more than 5 years, after which such planting material must be thrown away.

But corms grown from babies, fully preserve the characteristics of the mother plant.

Plant them "bouquets"

Where is the best place to gladiolus? These flowers look very beautiful, planted with “bouquets” next to the daylilies, salvias, and coniferous shrubs.

If the flower bed is planted on the perimeter with gladioli with marigolds and nasturtiums, then it will be not only attractive, but also useful, since these plants disinfect the soil from pathogens of fungal diseases.

© Author: Elena Ivanovna AKULICH

His majesty gladiolus

I am pleased to read your site! I love gladioli very much! I have 100 varieties of them! I hope that readers will be interested in my experience of growing them!

The combination of noble elegance and splendor of inflorescences, stateliness, incredible texture of flowers with folded and corrugated petals, a diverse range of colors - all this is his majesty gladiolus! But that he was pleased with the lush flowering, we must try!

Planting gladiolus

A month before planting, I take out the bulbs from the basement. I clean the covering scales and process with Fufanon or Aktar. If I notice the specks - sores, I cut them out and process the green paint. In early May, when the temperature of the soil is about 10 degrees, I start planting. I plant on well-lit places, to a depth of three bulb diameters and at a distance of 15-20 cm.

Of course, working with these beauties is a lot! Gladiolus knows its value. No wonder the people call him a spike - not everyone is given a hand and does not dissolve flowers for everyone, but he generously gives me his beauty!

Gladiolus Care

Simple: weeding, regular watering, especially in the first month when inflorescences are formed. After watering, I loosen the soil and mulch with sawdust. Gladioli grow up, and, despite the fact that they grow on well-fertilized soil, they need additional feeding.

The first (when there are 3 true leaves) is nitric (30 g of urea per 10 liters of water).

The second (before the appearance of peduncles) is phosphorus-potassium (50 g of superphosphate and 30 of potassium sulfate).

The third (after flowering) - 5 g of manganese per 10 liters. water. 2-3 times per season I spend foliar dressing with a solution of microelements.

During the growing season I spray several times plants from thrips preparations Aktara, Decis, Actellic with an interval of 20 days. Thrips are the most insidious enemies of gladioli. Insects pierce the leaves and suck the juice. White spots appear and the leaves dry out. Naturally, such plants (depending on the degree of damage) either bloom poorly or do not bloom at all.

Gladiolus cleaning for storage

I try to carry out cleaning on the 20th of September {approximately 20-30 days after flowering). I dig out the bulbs, prune the stem, leaving a stump 3-4 cm long. I wash it in water and process it with a solution of the fungicide for 30 minutes. When the gladioli dry up after processing, prune the old onion and separate the baby.

I carefully examine, any damage cut and gloss over with green paint. Patients with gladiolus have been planted for the third year before winter. At first she was very afraid that they would not grow up in the spring But the fears were in vain. They sprout, however, later those bulbs that were planted in the spring. But, thus, I save them! The rest of the bulbs dry around the stove for a month.

Then I put them in cardboard boxes, put garlic cloves there and put them in a basement, where the temperature does not exceed 10 degrees. These conditions inhibit the growth of thrips. Another important point.

Gladioli can not be planted with cucumbers, tomatoes, asters, beans and tobacco.

© Author: G. Dityatyev, Zuevka, Kirov region Gladiolus - sharp sword

Always my mother in the garden grew gladioli.

Beautiful, lush, tall ... In my childhood, for each of my birthdays that fall in the middle of August, I received bouquets from all of these flowers from everyone. Therefore, probably, I love them so much so far. In my garden now, too, grow gladioli of all sizes and colors, different flowering times. Gladiolus flowers have a very wide range of colors: white, pink and soft pastels, coral, red and crimson, original green and even more unusual two-color ... For the long xiphoidal leaves, gladiolus got the name of the sword for us, and the Latin name comes from the word gladus - "sword".


I combine gladioli with a variety of garden flowers. For example, the combination of multi-colored gladioli with dahlias is fantastically beautiful and ridiculously simple. Large-flowered tender gladiolus ‘Quadrille’ looks great with yellow decorative sunflowers. Pink-raspberry variety ‘Stop, moment’ plays so interestingly, surrounded by any pink annual delphinium!

And the gladioli of ‘Purple Flora’, ‘Blue snowflakes’, ‘Blue lightning’ mixed with perennial lupins create such an elegant flower mass - you can’t take your eyes off their wild flowering! I also tasted small-flowered mini-gladioli, which, of course, were not in my childhood. These varieties are quite new. They are so good in containers, and in their "legs" you can plant any ampelous or dwarf annuals ...

The secret of flowering

The secret of lush flowering lurks in constant dressings. The plant spends a lot of resources on flowering. Potash and phosphate fertilizers are necessary for gladioli to form powerful peduncles capable of withstanding the weight of large flowers, as well as for the full development of corms and the formation of babies and replacement bulrows. Top dressing is carried out all season as plants grow.


I advise you to dig a place for planting gladioli in the fall, to a depth of about 35 cm. In the spring, do not rush the planting, because if you put the corms in the wet and cold ground, they will develop worse and, most likely, hurt. Wait until the end of April - beginning of May, once again loosen the garden and then plant dahlias.

The depth of planting varies slightly and depends on the size of each corm, but consider that it is equal to three diameters. Before planting, the material must be kept in potassium permanganate or in a solution of "Fundazol" (10-15 minutes). I dig up corms almost at the very end of September, rinse and pickle again - and dry. They are stored in my .. at a temperature of + 3 ... + 9 ° C and humidity around 50%.

© Author: Olga Borisova, Yaroslavl Gladiolus bulbs - preparation and planting - video (good)

Gladioli. Preparation and planting bulbs

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