Seeds hydrangea garden

Date: 23.09.2018, 23:19 / View: 92243

The frost resistance of rhododendron is quite high, but in regions with long low temperatures for winter, these bushes are better sheltered. Where rose rose rhododendron, a description of leaves and flowers of the bush

The rhododendron plant (Rhododendron) belongs to the Heather family. His homeland - Asia, America, Europe, Siberia, the Far East, the Caucasus, Altai.

The tree of the rhododendron descended to us from the mountains, which means that it loves rocky soil, it is quite cold, it is lighter than the plants of the valleys, it suffers sharp temperature fluctuations. In the northwestern climate, it is completely frost-resistant, but not winter-hardy. In addition to winter thaws, there are also treacherous late spring frosts, to which few plants have managed to adapt. And where is the rhododendron growing in Russia? In our country these plants are wild in the Sikhote-Alin mountains, on Sakhalin, on Kamchatka and in the Far East, and they manage to climb to great heights (2-4 km!). Often in natural conditions shrubs of rhododendrons grow under the canopy of a rare pine forest. Most rhododendrons like acidic soil and prefer to grow in the penumbra.

Rhododendrons were brought to Europe just some two hundred years ago, and by the beginning of the XIX century there were only about 15 species. They turned out to be such an attractive material for breeding, that the literally avalanche process began not only to bring out new varieties and hybrids, but also to search for all new species growing in nature. Now there are thousands of varieties of these amazing plants!

Slowly but surely, rhododendron bushes spread not only through the gardens and parks of the world, but also on our homeland of six hundred. If even twenty years ago they were an exotic rarity, now a rare gardener does not try to "domesticate" them on the site.

Rhododendrons are very diverse. There are trees among them. Their height reaches six meters, there are real twenty-meter giants! But at the same time there are many shrub forms from 80 cm to 2-3 m in height. There are also dwarf individuals, forming low cushions only 30 cm high. There are also creeping species, by the way, the most suitable for the North-West region.

As you can see in the photo, the flowers of rhododendrons are bell-shaped, cup-shaped or funnel-shaped, they can have a size from 0.5 cm in diameter to 10 and even 15 cm, their color is always bright, and the palette of paints is unusually wide:

There is not only black and blue flowers. Almost all types of leathery glossy oval leaves. Flowering is abundant. Good healthy plants are fully covered with flowers. Rhododendrons, generally speaking, are long-lived, so when you buy them, remember that you plant the plant for many years, and therefore the rhododendron can not be stuck anywhere and as horrible. The place for it should be chosen carefully, the soil for planting should be prepared in advance. And then go to the nursery and choose the plant very carefully, finding out what kind of species or variety you acquire, what features it has, because not all species, let alone varieties and hybrids of rhododendrons can grow in your climatic zone and specifically in your garden.

Family Heather. The genus derives its name from the Greek words rhodon - rose and dendron - tree. Rose rhododendron includes about 1,300 species and about 30,000 varieties of evergreen, semi-evergreen and deciduous shrubs and trees growing in the cold and temperate zones of the Northern Hemisphere, especially in the mountains. Original decorative shrubs or even small trees with dense, leathery, evergreen foliage and large bell-bellied flowers are very popular all over the world. Interest in the rhododendron is due to the decorative nature of the foliage and the variety of forms of shrubs, but most of all - the splendor of white, pink, purple, red flowers, collected in umbellate, resembling a bouquet of inflorescences.

Rhododendron - a very decorative shrub, depending on the species, can have any height, but usually reaches up to two meters, with a superficial, compact root system consisting of a large number of fibrous roots, with various in size and shape leaves, which can be both perennial and annual, while both sedentary and petioles, with bisexual, large funnel-shaped or campanulate flowers in lush umbellate or scutian inflorescences of any color, located at the tips of the branches, and also with rod-shaped, small seeds in a five-leaved, multi-seeded capsule opening downward.

Very demanding plant, preferring wet, but drained, bezvesvestkovye land, high humidity and a slight shading. At a young age develops very slowly. In addition, the plant needs to provide annual mulching in the fall of the land with peat, and when drought - abundant watering. It is better to carry out the process of plant reproduction in the summer, using for this purpose the layers.

Shrub flower rhododendron is recommended for wide application in the greening of garden areas in group plantings and solitaires on lawns. The bush is valued for the beautiful autumn color of the leaves. Many evergreen species are suitable for growing indoors. Rhododendron in the garden you can plant uncomfortable places on the site. Perfectly obtained from them are undersized curbs and hedges. It has many useful properties - soil-protective, medicinal, ethereal-oil and others.

Next, you can see the photo and description of rhododendrons of the most popular species and varieties. Species and varieties of the tree rhododendron: photo and description

Among the huge number of different kinds of rhododendron for the middle zone of Russia, the following types are particularly suitable:

R. dahuricum is a strongly branched, medium-sized, deciduous shrub up to 2 - 2.5 m high from the Khabarovsk and Primorye Territories. Leaves oblong, up to 5 cm long, green, and in the autumn bright yellow. Flowers are pink-violet, funnel-shaped. Blossoms this species of rhododendron early and abundantly.

R. Kamchatsky (Ph. Kamtschaticum) - the birthplace of the Far East of Russia, Japan, North America. It forms semi-spherical bushes, bright carmine flowers, blooms in June-July.

R. Canadian (Ph. Canadense) - deciduous shrub up to 1 m high. The leaves are elliptical, bluish-green. Flowers are pink and purple. Blooms in April - May. R. Smirnova (Ph. Smirnowii) - the birthplace of the Caucasus, Turkey. Evergreen shrub up to 1 - 2 m in height, with oblong-elliptical leaves 8-10 cm long. Flowers are purple. Blooms from the end of May to the middle of June.

P. melkilistny (Ph. Parviflorum) - an evergreen shrub 0,5 -0,6 m in height from Siberia, the Far East Territory, Japan, Korea, the USA. Leaves oblong-lanceolate. Flowers up to 3 cm in diameter, golden in color. Blooms in May - June. Very beautiful plant.

These species, like others, with their grace, richness of colors, invariably please gardeners.

In the middle zone of Russia, some species of the rhododendron require shelter for the winter, especially for evergreen plants. The best time for shelters is the first decade of November.

Rhododendron Ledebur - Rhododendron ledebourii. Blooms in April - May. The flowers are pinkish-lilac, the height of the bush is 0.5-1.8 m (hereinafter the plant height in culture is indicated). In winter, the leaves of rhododendrons remain in the bushes and fall in the spring with the beginning of shoot growth.

Rhododendron Ketevbinsky - Rhododendron catawbiense. Blossoms in late May - June. Flowers lilac-purple, the height of the bush is up to 1.5 m.

Rhododendron short-bodied - Rhododendron brachycarpum. Blossoms in June-July. The flowers are white or slightly pinkish, the height of the bush is up to 10 m

Rhododendron is the largest - Rhododendron maximum. Blooms in June - July. The flowers are white or pink, the height of the bush is about 1.0 m.

Rhododendron Smirnova - Rhododendron smirnowii. Blooms in May - June. The flowers are pink, the height of the bush is up to 1.0 m.

Rhododendron Vasema - Rhododendron vaseyi. Blooms in May. The flowers are white, pink, the height of the bush is 1.2 m.

Rhododendron yellow - Rhododendron luteum. It grows wild in the Caucasus, the Balkans, and in Asia Minor. A beautiful deciduous shrubbery, up to 2-3 m in height, with oblong-ovate, bright green leaves. In autumn the foliage is painted in various shades of red and orange colors. The flowers are large, yellow, very fragrant, up to 5-8 cm in diameter. Blossoms in late May - June.

Rhododendron pointed - Rhododendron mucronulatum. It grows wild in the Far East, in Northeast China and Japan. Shrub 2-3 m high, with elliptical, bright green, shiny leaves. Flowers funnel-shaped, campanulate, up to 3-4 cm in diameter, pink, arranged several together or singly. Blossoms in April, before the leaves blossom, it is very plentiful about a month. When describing the rhododendron plant, it is worth noting its beautiful bronze foliage in autumn.

Rhododendron Buchan - Rhododendron khanense. Blooms in May - June. The flowers are pale lilac-purple, the height of the bush is 0.8 m. Young plants require shelter for the winter.

Rhododendron Schlippenbach - Rhododendron schlippenbachii. Blooms in May. The flowers are white or pinkish, the height of the bush is 1.0-1.2 m.

Rhododendron Japanese - Rhododendron japonicum. Blossoms in late May - June. Flowers are salmon-red, the height of the bush is 1.0-1.5 m. There is a form with yellow flowers.

In addition to species plants, there are many evergreen and deciduous varieties of rhododendrons, the description of which is characterized by high winter hardiness (the temperature is indicated for flower buds, the cultures themselves are more enduring).

Hybrids of Ketevbinsk rhododendron (cold-resistant -32 ° C): Alfred, Boursault, Catawbiense, Grandiflorum, Abraham Lincoln, Zembla, Rozeum Elegans - bloom in late May-June, flowers red-lilac, purple, lilac; "Catawbiense album" - blooms in late May - June, white flowers.

Hybrids of the Smirnov rhododendron (cold resistance -26 ° C). They reach a height of 1.0 m: Gabriel, Beliefontaine, Dorothy Swift, Tut, Lajka.

Hybrid rhododendron yakushimansky (cold resistance of most varieties is -29 ° C, but there are varieties that can withstand -32 ° C). The height of the bushes does not exceed 1.0 m. The color of the flowers is pale pink, white and pink: "Appa N. Hall", "Mist Maiden", "Kep Janeck".

Of the hybrid forms of the Caucasian rhododendron, Cunningham's White (cold resistance -26 ° C) should be noted.

In recent years, varieties developed with the use of a very winter-resistant form of short-bred rhododendron (R. brachycarpum var. Tigerstedtii) have appeared: "Pohjohlas Daughtef" - the height of the bush is 1 m, the flowers are white (cold resistance -34 ° C);

"Elviira" - the height of the bush is 0.6 m, the flowers are red (-34 ° C); "Hellikki" - the height of the bush is 1.5 m, the flowers are red-violet (-34 ° C);

"Helsinki University" - the height of the bush is 2,0 m, the flowers are white (-39 ° C);

"Mikkeli" - the height of the bush is 1.0 m, flowers are white-pink (-37 ° C);

"Peter Tigerstedf" - the height of the bush is 2,0 m, the flowers are white (-36 ° C).

Acquiring varieties of evergreen large-leaved rhododendrons, it should be remembered that not all of them survive the winter of the middle belt. The most weak winter hardiness characterizes the majority of red-flowered varieties of European selection, as the heat-loving Rhododendron wood (Rh. Arboreum), which grows in the Himalayas, was used to improve their decorative qualities in crosses.

Unpretentious species: Japanese rhododendron, rhododendron yellow, Shlippenbach rhododendron, rhododendron Canadian, rhododendron Ledebur. They can grow even young gardeners.

Which varieties of rhododendrons are preferable? Of course, species (that is, growing independently in nature), as well as cold-resistant varieties and hybrids (that is, created by the efforts of breeders). The height of the bushes is from 1.5 to 2.5 m. Flowering passes (depending on the variety) from the end of April to the end of July, each plant blooming for about three weeks and longer. If you manage to pick up plants with different periods of flowering, then you can not put anything else - the beauty of your site will be provided.

Most of all rhododendrons with violet-pink and different shades of violet flowers. White flowers are often found. But a fairly rare color - intense red, yellow or orange.

Recommended by breeders and gardeners:

The Reds. Albrecht, Elizabeth, Scarlett.

Pink. Panenka, Mark, Renata.

Lilac, purple. Blue Pit, Sapphire, Bourzauult.

Yellow, marigold, golden. Vlasta, Moravank, Norma.

White. Jackson, Alain.

Rhododendrons are best planted in the light shade of trees, although they also grow well in the light. Very well neighbors rhododendrons next to coniferous plants, which create a favorable habitat for them. Very impressive look group plantings of rhododendrons, which can be monophonic or composed of plants with different colors of flowers. The combination of tones creates a wonderful decorative effect.

Look at the photo - all varieties of rhododendrons are perfectly combined with lilac, barberry, Japanese quince:

Good compositions from different varieties, having a different appearance (height) of the bush and coloring of flowers. How to grow rhododendron flowers: the place of planting and preparing the soil

The planting site for rhododendron flowers should be selected taking into account the biological characteristics of this species, and the conditions of illumination should be approximately the same as in the natural habitat. Rhododendrons require moist, well drained, acidic (pH 4.5-5.8), rich in humus soils. They can grow on sandy and stony places. On neutral soils for rhododendrons, it is necessary to make sour peat. In the root feeding zone, lime, dolomite, ash and other materials or fertilizers should not fall, shifting the pH of the soil to the alkaline side. They have a small surface root system, so when planting the roots are not buried. When growing rhododendron necessarily mulch trunks. As a mulch, peat, coniferous litter, moss or dry leaf (best of all oak) is suitable. It is undesirable to use leaves of maple and horse chestnut, they quickly decompose and have an alkaline reaction. Mulch contributes to the preservation of moisture in the soil, protects the roots from overheating in the heat, and in winter - from freezing, suppresses the growth of weeds, rotting, increases the humus content and the acidity of the soil. Its layer should be at least 5 cm. You can not dig and loosen the soil under the bushes.

One of the conditions for growing rhododendron - regular watering, impermissible drying of the root material. On the other hand, excess moisture is harmful, so it is necessary to ensure the drainage of excess water. Since rhododendrons do not tolerate lime and chlorine, they can not be watered with chlorinated tap water or hard water containing a lot of lime (giving a deposit on the dishes). They react very badly to watering and sprinkling with hard (lime) water. First, they will wither away the young roots, and then the whole plant will die. In hard water should be used for watering and sprinkling add lemon (2 grams per 10 liters) or acetic acid (1 tablespoon 9% vinegar table vinegar per 10 liters).

Before you grow a rhododendron, you need to choose the optimal location. Shrubs can be planted near other trees, for example, near fir, larch, in which the roots "go" to great depth. Do not fit rocks with a closely spaced root system (maple, willow). Their roots deprive the rhododendrons of moisture and nutrition, and those, in the end, die. In the case of forced landing in close proximity to undesirable trees, isolation from their roots of the rhododendron feeding zone should be provided with the help of a roofing material, polyethylene or other materials. For rhododendrons, a place will come from the north side of the building, where the sun illuminates the plants in the early morning and in the afternoon.

Determining the site for planting to grow and care for the rhododendron, care must be taken to protect bushes from prevailing winds throughout the year, which is very important for rhododendron culture. In open areas, plantations (especially evergreen species) in winter suffer not so much from frosts as from the drying up of the wind. The exception is some deciduous rhododendrons: Japanese, yellow, Kamchatka, which grow well in open solar areas. Especially not desirable are plantings near the corners of buildings, where there are strong drafts, and also on free spaces between buildings. Rhododendrons - moisture-loving culture, they need soil and atmospheric moisture, especially during budding and flowering.

For planting in the mid-zone conditions only species and varieties with reliable winter hardiness are suitable.

When choosing a place for planting a rhododendron, one should provide for its protection from the direct midday sun, especially in early spring, when the evergreen foliage is already in full swing, including intensively evaporating moisture, and the roots have not yet woken up and moisture is not replenished. This leads to dehydration of the plant, and this primarily manifests itself on the leaves. Under optimal lighting, rhododendron leaves are leathery, bright green, glossy. If they become dull, matte, the middle veins become yellowish, and brown spots appear on the edges of the leaves, then this is a signal that the light is too strong, causing burns of the leaves.

To avoid this, a place for planting should be chosen so that from the south on the rhododendrons, the scattered shadow of another tree, for example, mountain pine, thuja or pine, falls. It is best if the plants are illuminated by the morning and evening sun, but not by midday. I must say that the rhododendrons generally like to grow under the canopy of the pine forest (but not spruce!). Plant rhododendrons should be 1.5-2 m from the trunk of the tree from the north. The tree protecting the rhododendron from the sun should be chosen with a deep root system, and this does not necessarily have to be a pine. Oak, pear or apple tree, even cherry, is suitable. But spruce is not suitable because it has a superficial root system, and since in the rhododendron the root system is not deep (only 15-20 cm), the spruce will strongly oppress it. For the same reason, maple, linden, poplar, elm, birch are not suitable.

Evergreen rhododendrons do not like drafts and at the same time do not like stagnant air, so they should not be planted on the corners of buildings.

In addition, protection from northern and northeasterly winds should be provided, planting rocking plants or using structures. In winter, strong northern and northeasterly winds in severe frosts increase transpiration (moisture evaporation from the leaves), and the leaves dry out.

There are dwarf species of evergreen rhododendrons. To protect them from spring sunburn, it is enough to snow them to a height of 30-40 cm. High bushes (and rhododendrons, generally reaching a height of 1.5-2.5 m) can be covered with lutrasil or spunbond in several layers, or use for this old sheet.

Deciduous and half-lenticular rhododendrons, in contrast to evergreen, on the contrary, prefer a sunny place.

In addition, they need a stony substrate, which is natural, since plants originate from mountains. Drainage is also necessary, since these plants do not tolerate stagnation of water at all, and therefore they should be planted on a hillock or artificial elevation.

As shown in the photo, for planting and caring for rhododendron, the soil should be prepared to a depth of 30-40 cm, that is to double the height of the root coma:

The diameter of the landing pit is also sufficient to make approximately 30-40 cm. Fill the pit with moisture and air-permeable soil, which is most easily used as peat, it is possible to bring from a pine forest coniferous bedding or from a cranberry swamp moss sphagnum, or heath land. Any of these materials is diluted with soil removed from the planting pit in a 1: 1 ratio. If you made a bulk rise, then a pebble of about 50 cm in height from a mixture of peat, sand and garden soil in a ratio of 3: 1: 2 is poured onto a layer of pebbles or granite gravel. Rhododendrons grow solely on acidic soils (pH 4.5-5), so no ash, chalk or lime, or dolomite under them, can not be categorically made. With insufficient acid soil in the rhododendrons begins chlorosis (leaves from green and shiny become yellow-green with pale yellow veins). This is due to the fact that the formation of chlorophyll is suspended in leaves because magnesium and iron are in compounds inaccessible to plants and they are not digested. Planting and caring for rhododendron in the open field, fertilizing bushes

When planting, the root collar is left just above the soil level. Soil around the root neck should be carefully sealed. Plants are watered abundantly, the soil is mulled with peat, or finely chopped wood bark, or fallen pine needles, or sawdust with a layer of 5-6 cm. In spring 1-2 years add to the soil in the near-trunk circle in a bucket of rotted manure and peat or compost and peat and close to a shallow depth. In addition, dry fertilizers are introduced: 1 tbsp. a spoonful of ammonium sulphate, superphosphate, potassium sulfate. All fertilizers are mixed with a pouring.

Planting and caring for the rhododendron in the open ground can be carried out on a specially prepared high hill, since they do not tolerate soil with an alkaline reaction at all. But in the open ground it is difficult to maintain a constant acid medium. You can avoid this by building a special garden. To do this, from the site of the desired area, select the land to a depth of 40 cm, then a drainage layer of large pebbles, crushed stone, broken bricks with a layer of not less than 15 cm is poured onto the bottom. Next, 25 cm of acidic soil is poured onto the drainage, which consists of a mixture of peat, bark, semisubmerged needles, pine needles. From above scatter mineral fertilizers - on 1 м2 on 1 item. a spoonful of ammonium sulfate or urea, potassium sulfate and "Intermag" for flowers and ornamental crops. All this is mixed, leveled, watered and planted. Thus, the roots of plants will always be in an acidic environment, and the rhododendron plants will successfully grow and bloom.

The first top dressing of rhododendrons is carried out in early May: 10 liters of water are diluted 1 tbsp. a spoonful of urea and potassium sulfate, consuming 3 liters of solution per 1 bush.

The second feeding is carried out at the end of May: 10 liters of water are diluted 1 tbsp each. spoon "Gumata potassium" for garden flowers and potassium sulfate, spending 3-5 liters per bush.

The third fertilizing is carried out after flowering of the plant: 10 liters of water are diluted 1 st. spoon of potassium sulfate and superphosphate.

Weeds do not have to weed, because their germination will be prevented by mulch and increased acidity of the soil. They have practically no wreckers, there are no diseases either. It remains only watering, and here it is necessary to observe the measure.

The planting of rhododendron flowers can be carried out by individual plants, but so that they are not covered by other perennials or shrubs, the more it is not necessary to plant such crops that need other soil acidity. But it is better to plant them with a whole group in one place, so picking up the plants so that flowering passes from one to another. Then the blooming corner will please you about two or three months, moreover, with such a landing, care and shelter is much easier.

Beautifully look rhododendrons surrounded by stones, they love granite stones. Among the stones and rhododendrons, it is possible to plant a recumbent or undersized Erica as a ground cover plant. Coniferous plants are also suitable, but not all in a row. Spruce, for example, is not good, but pine is another matter. Pine, especially dwarf, mountain pine (it should be borne in mind that it grows in breadth and, if improperly planted, displaces the rhododendron), junipers, not too high thui (by the way, all kinds of tuja can be cut), ferns any, especially German ostrich ( which, by the way, also quickly occupies the territory, and therefore its offspring must be ripped out in time), hydrangeas of all kinds. Since rhododendrons and azaleas are referred to the family of heather, all other members of this family can also be included in the environment of rhododendrons: these are not only Erica, common heather, Gaulteria, but also blueberries, cowberries, and whites. How to care for the rhododendron in the garden and how to protect from disease (with video)

Caring for rhododendrons, it is worth remembering that all these plants are moisture-loving, prefer partial shade and grow well only on acidic soil. Under them, categorically you can not bring in ashes and any manure (except for the mullein), and also feed them plants - destroy them immediately and for good.

In the Northwest, as a rule, with a good layer (10 cm), mulch of copious irrigation is not required for rhododendrons, except for the flowering period, when they should be watered from the bottom of the heart (10 liters under the bush), so that the root lump is completely soaked with water the soil must always be moist at a depth of 20-30 cm. Before flowering, only with dry and hot weather, periodic sprinkle with slightly acidified water should be done.

It is very good for rhododendrons to act "Ecopherine", both with freezing, and with sunburn. With this preparation, in conjunction with the "Healthy Garden" preparation, rhododendrons, both deciduous and evergreen, should be sprayed prophylactically, in autumn before shelter and in the spring immediately after taking off the shelter. For the preparation of the solution it is sufficient to dissolve in one liter of water two or three grains of each of them.

If the burn or freezing did occur, the dose of "Ekoberyn" should be doubled and even tripled and the spraying should be repeated 3-4 times more weekly.

Plants are not affected by common diseases that affect other plants. The only disease of rhododendron - rot of the root Coma as a result of prolonged waterlogging of the soil or damage from frost or sun.

Of pests, only a beetle is dangerous, which, eating at night, hides in the day in the soil. It eats kidneys, buds, flowers and young shoots. To combat diseases and pests of rhododendrons in the evening it is necessary to spray plants with biological preparation "Fitoverm" (or "IskraBio") two times in 2-3 weeks from the moment of appearance of buds. The earth under the plants can be watered with carbophos.

In the process of caring for rhododendrons, do not forget to lay seeds, for this, after the flowering, gently break the wilted flowers.

The video "Care for the Rhododendron" shows the main agrotechnical techniques: Preparing the rhododendron for the winter: how to hide the bush

To prepare rhododendrons for winter, young shrubs that have flower buds are easiest to bend to the ground. Large plants, both deciduous and evergreen, can be covered with lapnik or white spunbond in several layers.

Before you cover the rhododendron for the winter, you must first install over them arcs, so that the material does not come into contact with the plants. At the same time, this shelter will protect the rhododendrons and sunburn. To protect the root system from freezing, pour the soil under the plants with a large layer (12-15 cm) of oak leaves or pine needles.

Do not hurry in the spring to take shelter, as long as there is a chance of their sunburn (March, April). Reproduction of rhododendron seeds and layers

Reproduction of rhododendrons is carried out by seeds and layers. Cuttings propagation, as a rule, is used in nurseries.

Seeds can be propagated all wild species. For this, it is necessary to collect seed-boxes in September-October. The optimal collection time comes when the top part of the box has turned brown, and the rest of it is still green. Capsules should be dried, poured out of seeds and stored in paper bags on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator. Seeds are sown in March in a shallow container (7 cm in height) in a mixture of peat and sand 3: 1. Since the seeds of the rhododendron are small and they need light for germination, they are not buried in the soil, but are sown superficially. It is best to sow them on the snow laid on top of the soil by a layer of approximately 1 cm. Then the container should be covered with a film (it is more convenient to use food because it sticks to the edges of the container). After this, you need to put the container on the windowsill.

Seedlings appear about two weeks later, if the seeds are fresh (collected last fall), and if they lay a year or two, the sprouts may linger for a month. After the emergence of shoots, the film should be removed. Watering the seedlings should be made with water from the melted cubes of food ice with a syringe, the needle of which must be inserted into the soil. Shoots should be protected from direct sunlight. In stage 2 of these leaves, the seedlings are dived on individual flower pots with a capacity of 0.5 l at once for 2-3 plants together. The soil is prepared from a mixture of peat and sand in a ratio of 3: 1. 2 weeks after the picking, you can gradually fertilize plants with a physiologically acidic fertilizer (1 teaspoon of azofoski for 5 liters of water). The finished solution is unlimited time. Or, to get rid of fertilizing, immediately into the pot with soil, you should make half a teaspoon of the AVA fertilizer powder and mix it well.

In the spring after the termination of frosts pots can be prikopat in the ground on a site in such place which is shined by the sun only in the morning or in the evening. It is necessary to monitor the moisture of the soil in pots and timely water the plant. The first two years, pots with plants must be brought home and kept in a cool place, very mildly watering with melted food ice. In the following years, young rhododendrons can be left to winter in the open ground right in the pots, but they should always be covered with lapnika or covered with dry leaves (preferably oak, but also apple), or sheltered by several layers of lutrasil fixed on low arcs.

Reproduction by layers significantly accelerates the beginning of flowering. For layers, the lowest and longest flexible shoot with two-year-old wood is used. In spring, on the lower part of the stem, a shallow incision of 4 cm cortex should be made, remove all leaves from the shoot and place the shoot in a ditch 5 cm deep, cover with acidic loose and moist soil. This place should always be wet, for this it can be covered from above with moss sphagnum. There is one nuance: the end of the shoot is tied to the peg, it should stick out vertically above the level of the soil by 12 cm. Rooting lasts 2-3 years. Then it can be separated from the mother plant and discarded. This is best done in the spring of the third year. Forming and pruning rhododendron

Usually in gardening it is considered that the rhododendron does not need any shaping, or pruning. However, it should be emphasized that an important technological measure is the removal of dried flowers after flowering.

At a young age, such removal contributes to the formation of new shoots and branches, in the future the plant in this operation forms more growing buds and feels better, in the spring the vegetation comes faster.

Pruning rhododendrons should be done to give the bush a certain shape and remove old, damaged, withered and diseased branches. When pruning, remember that the rhododendron shortens only individual branches. Strong pruning significantly inhibits plant growth and the first flowering. If there was a need to trim old and lost shrubs, it is best to do this in the middle of spring (end of April). It is not recommended to break out the faded flowers of old branches.

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