Planting in autumn apricot seed

Date: 05.10.2018, 04:54 / View: 41142

Common apricot (lat. Prunus armeniaca) is a type of fruit tree of the Plum family of the Rosaceae family. Scientists still do not know exactly where the apricot came from. Some believe that it is from the Tien-Shan region in China, others believe that Armenia is the birthplace of the plant. In any case, apricot came to Europe from Armenia: there is a version that Alexander the Great brought it to Greece, and from there the tree got to Italy, but there is no documentary evidence of this. Apricot was brought to Russia from Western Europe in the 17th century, and it came to Ukraine and the Caucasus from the Middle and Near East. At the Persian origin of apricot indicates the name "Zherdel", adopted at that time in Ukraine. In Russia, apricots are also sometimes called “Zherdil”, and also “Yellowworms” and “Morel”. Contents Planting and caring for apricots (in brief) Planting: from mid to late April, in the south you can plant in late September or early October. Blossoming: from the beginning of April. Lighting: bright sunlight. Soil: a light loam of neutral or weakly alkaline reaction. Watering: it is made on ring ditches. The first - during flowering, the second - in May, during the period of intensive growth of shoots, the third - in early July, two weeks before the harvest. Water recharge irrigation is carried out in October. Top-dressings: 2-3 top-dressings in spring with nitrogen fertilizers (chicken manure, slurry, urea or saltpeter): in early spring, before flowering and after it. In the summer, they are treated with solutions of trace elements on the leaves. From the second half of the summer, the introduction of nitrogen is stopped, and in the end of August or in September, potassium phosphate fertilizers are applied. Organics are applied once every 2-3 years, and manure for digging can be applied only once in 4-5 years. Pruning: in the middle of October - regulating and sanitary pruning, in early spring - sanitary and formative. In mid-June, once every three years - sanitary cleaning and rejuvenating pruning to stimulate the growth of new shoots. Reproduction: shoots, root suckers, vaccination. Pests: moths, larvae of larvae, moths, aphids. Diseases: monilioz, klyasterosporiosis (perforated spotting), Valsa mushroom, verticillis, smallpox, viral diseases wilt and mosaic.

Read more about apricot cultivation below. Apricot Tree - Description

Apricot is a deciduous fruit tree, reaching a height of 5-8 m. The bark of an apricot is grayish-brown, cracking on old trunks. Young shoots are bare, red-brown, shiny. Apricot leaves are petiolate, alternate, rounded-ovate, drawn at the top, finely toothed along the edge, sometimes double-toothed, up to 9 cm long. Single flowers of 25-30 mm in diameter on short short stem have bloomed in March or April than leaves appear. Flowering apricot is as beautiful as an apple tree, pear, cherry, or cherry. The fruit of the apricot is a juicy single-fossa of yellow-orange color, round, elliptical or obovate with a longitudinal groove. The bone of the fetus is thick-walled, rough or smooth.

Apricot lives up to a hundred years, fruits begin to form from the age of three, fructification lasts 30-40 years. Due to the deep penetration of roots into the soil, apricot is drought-resistant. Most of the trees are able to withstand cold to -25 ºC, and the most resistant varieties are not afraid of thirty degrees of frost. Apricot is a relative of such fruit crops as peach, plum, shadberry, mountain ash, aronia, quince, medlar, rosehip, apple and pear. In this article we will tell you about how to grow apricot: how to plant it properly, how to care for apricot, how to shape its crown with pruning, how to feed it, how to propagate it with vaccines or in other ways, how to treat apricot for pests and diseases. Planting apricot When planting apricot.

The best time to plant an apricot in a garden in northern latitudes is early spring, from mid to late April, until buds begin to unfold on the trees. In the southern countryside, you can plant apricot in the fall, in early October, with the expectation that the seedling can take root before the onset of winter. In the middle lane, you can plant this crop in both spring and autumn. Since the apricot of all stone fruit crops is the most light and heat-loving, it is desirable to plant it on a well-lit and protected from strong wind elevations, where there is cold air flow to lower places. Representatives of the genus Plum do not tolerate acidic soils, so this soil will have to be lime before planting. Optimal primer alt = "Spring apricot blossom">

After harvesting, apricot in August needs watering - it will be the last, so to speak, podzimny irrigation, which nourishes the soil with moisture and helps the tree survive the winter. Care for apricot in the fall.

In autumn, your task is to prepare the tree for the winter. What events are you coming? Firstly, sanitary pruning of apricot, in which you need to remove the branches, broken during the harvest, as well as dried and diseased shoots.

After leaf fall, plant residues are removed from the site, and the soil is dug up in the near-stem circles. And, finally, in the fall, they are carrying out preventive treatment of apricot against pathogens and pests that have settled for the winter in the bark of the trunk or in the ground of the trunk circle. Apricot processing.

For each disease has its own method of treatment, and for any pest - methods of dealing with it. However, it is better not to wait until the treatment of apricot from a dangerous disease or from the consequences of the vital activity of harmful insects becomes necessary, but to take, as the lawyers say, preventive measures. To do this, it is necessary to carry out spring and autumn preventive treatment of trees with specially designed preparations for this. The first treatment, according to sleeping buds, is carried out with a solution of 700 g of urea in 10 liters of water. But if the buds on the trees are already swollen, urea cannot be used, so the treatment is carried out with copper sulphate, Bordeaux liquids or preparations that we listed earlier. Simultaneously with this protective treatment, it is possible to spray the trees with a solution of Zircon or Ecoberin, which will increase the resistance of the apricot to weather conditions and diseases.

Before flowering at an air temperature not lower than 18 ºC, it is necessary to process apricots from ticks, the larvae of which have been wintered in the ground, with colloidal sulfur or Neoron, and from weevils and leafworms, with Decis or Kinmiks. After flowering, prophylactic treatment of apricot from moniliosis with Oxyhom or Ridomil is carried out in accordance with the instructions.

During the fruit growth period, trees are protected with chorus and colloidal sulfur from coccomycosis and powdery mildew, but the treatment must be carried out no later than 2 weeks before harvest.

In the autumn, after leaf fall, apricot can again be treated with urea. Apricot feed.

Apricot during the growing season is fed several times. In spring, the plant needs nitrogen fertilizers, which are mainly applied to the soil. Before the beginning of summer, such dressings can be 2 or 3: at the very beginning of spring, before flowering and after it. Urea, slurry, chicken manure and saltpeter are most commonly used as fertilizer.

Summer feeding is carried out on the leaves. Apricots are treated with nitrogen-containing compounds, as well as with trace element solutions, in which trees need this time. Starting from the second half of the summer, nitrogen is no longer applied, replacing it with potash-phosphate fertilizers.

After the harvest, in late August or September, apricot is fed with mineral fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium - both of these elements are contained in wood ash. At the same time, it is desirable to add some calcium in the form of chalk to the soil.

Warning: manure as an organic fertilizer at the rate of 4 kg per m² can be applied once every 2-3 years, not more often. Compost is applied to the soil in the amount of 5-6 kg per m², adding mineral fertilizers to it. Chicken dung, which contains both nitrogen and potassium with phosphorus, is introduced in the amount of 300 g per m² plot, having previously mixed it with compost. Organic fertilizers are applied once every 2-3 years, and if the trees grow under sap, they do not need organic matter at all.

Nitrogen fertilizers have the property to delay the period of growth of shoots, thereby reducing their winter hardiness, therefore, starting from the second half of summer, their introduction is impractical. During the first three dressings (in early spring, before and after flowering), the dosage of nitrogen fertilizers is 30-40 g / m².

The need for potassium occurs during the ripening of the fruit, therefore, a 40 percent Potassium salt should be applied during the season at one-month intervals several times, enclosing it in grooves 20-30 cm deep along the perimeter of the tree trunk at a rate of 40-60 g / m².

In the period of formation, growth and ripening of fruits, plants also need phosphorus in the form of superphosphate. It is mandatory to make it before and after flowering in the amount of 200 g / m².

Elements such as manganese and boron, you can feed the apricot in the summer on the leaves. For example, a solution of 1 tablespoon of boric acid in 10 liters of water is applied 2-3 times per season for an apricot, and one-percent solution of manganese sulphate is sprayed on the trees as soon as all the leaves have opened. After a month and a half, the treatment is repeated. Ripe apricots after harvest Apricot wintering.

Apricot has the most winter-hardy root system of all stone fruit plants, so winter is not terrible for him in the middle lane. But young plants still need warming for the winter. Strands of one- and two-year-old seedlings are tied with spruce branches, and wrapped with lutrasil or spunbond on top, followed by spuding the bottom of the trunk. They take shelter at the end of March. Apricot pruning When pruning apricot.

Growing apricot involves the formation of its crown, as well as timely sanitary and anti-aging pruning. Pruning is one of the most important points of care for trees and shrubs, it is carried out annually. How and when to properly cut the apricot?

Apricot, unlike other fruit trees, does not shed its ovaries; therefore, it often suffers from congestion, as a result of which its branches break off. To maintain the balance between the fruits, branches and leaves of the tree, it is necessary in mid-October to conduct a regulatory, formative and sanitary pruning of apricots.

In early spring, formative and sanitary pruning is carried out as soon as it gets warmer, but you need to have time to do this before the leaves bloom. As a rule, the frozen out or broken branches and shoots are removed, and the branches and the conductor are pruned in order to form the crown.

In the summer, in the middle of June, once every three years, sanitary and rejuvenating pruning is carried out in order to stimulate the growth of new shoots by 30-50 cm and the laying of fruitful buds on secondary shoots.

Young seedlings are pruned for the first time a year after planting. How to trim apricot.

Apricot fruits on fruit branches, they are fruits, spurs and bouquet branches. Fruits are active for no more than three years, after which they need to be changed. If the apricot is not cut, it will bear fruit irregularly - in a year, or even after two. In addition, trees with thickened crown are prone to coccomycosis.

Apricot crown is formed in different ways: traditionally in the form of a ball, in the form of a cypress, and there is also the form of a palmette and a variation of this form of the Vermet palmette is the best variant of the crown in terms of yield per cubic meter of space. A detailed description of how to form these crowns is the subject of a separate article. Today we will talk about how the sparsely-long crown, which is customary for the trees of our gardens, is formed.

In the first year, all the strength of the seedling goes to a powerful conductor. At the beginning of autumn the conductor of the tree planted last fall is shortened by one quarter. The next year, you need to decide on the skeletal branches: leave the two strongest and shorten them by half, and cut the remaining branches on the ring. Cut the central conductor so that it is 20-25 cm longer than the skeletal branches. Remove shoots growing at an acute angle from the branches.  Ripe apricots on the tree in the garden

In subsequent years, another 3-5 skeletal branches are laid and form second-order branchings on them that are at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other. Make sure that the upper shoots are not overtaken in the growth of the lower. Remove excess shoots. After laying the last, seventh skeletal branch, next spring cut the conductor flush with it - it’s more than you will not need. When crown formation is complete, keep it in optimal condition - do not let it thicken. Shoots in varieties with good branching are shortened by a third, and in those varieties that branch badly, only by half. Strongly growing trees are pruned three times a year: weak shoots are shortened by a quarter, strong ones - by half.

When in adult trees the annual growth becomes less than 40 cm, apricots begin to rejuvenate: the skeletal branches are cut to three to four years old wood, making cuts into strong branches growing in the right direction. Pruning apricot in the spring.

As a result of the withering away of the fruits, the skeleton branch of the apricot becomes bare. The fruiting apricot is pruned in order to maintain its growth activity so that annual growths are at least 40-50 cm. As soon as the growth is reduced to 30 cm, it is necessary to emboss the shoots for two-year-old wood. In addition, in the spring they carry out thinning of the crown: they cut out drying and weak branches, transfer the semi-skeletal and skeletal branches to the side and external branches located in free space. Depending on the size and thickness of the crown of the tree at one time cut from two to four blades-openings. Pruning apricot in the summer.

In warm areas it is advisable to carry out after the spring summer pruning of apricot, in which shoots 30-40 cm long are shortened by half. Summer pruning provides a plentiful growth even before the end of the current year: the tree has time to restore the foliage and lay the generative buds on the shoots of the second wave before the end of the growing season. The main condition for successful recovery after summer pruning is the provision of moisture and nutrition to the apricot. If there are objective difficulties with watering, it is better not to carry out summer pruning. Pruning apricot in the fall.

Autumn pruning of apricots is carried out in order to prepare the trees for the winter. Sick, weak and dry branches are removed from young trees, wounds and cracks in the tree are cleaned and treated with garden pitch. To lighten the crown, remove the branches directed inward. Strong shoots in order to prevent overload during fruiting and stripping of branches are cut to two to three year old wood.

On mature trees, branches are shortened using the following branches. Cut branches in the bare part can not. Strongly thickened crown begin to thin out from the peripheral branches - semi-skeletal. First you need to cut off the damaged, interfering with each other and shading branches, and then, if this is not enough, 15-20% of healthy branches are shortened to the lower branch. After that, the overgrown fertile wood is freed from dry, diseased and damaged branches.

Skeletal branches of the first order cut out only when absolutely necessary. Reproduction of apricot How to multiply apricot.

Apricot seeds are propagated by seeds and vegetative methods. Due to the fact that many varieties of apricot are cross-pollinated, it is problematic to assume that it will grow from their seeds. An exception is the Dwarf variety, the seeds of which completely inherit the mother plant.

Vegetative methods allow you to get offspring without surprises. Most often, amateur culture uses the method of propagation by grafting; however, if you want to grow an exact copy of the tree you like, you can use the method of propagation by shoots or root offspring. Reproduction of root suckers or shoots.

The shoots around the apricot are usually formed as a result of damage to the tree by animals, frost or too much pruning, and root shoots indicate that the root system of the apricot has been disrupted. It is easy to propagate the apricot in this way, but it is problematic, since a healthy tree does not form either shoots or offsprings. If they are, dig out a yearling sprout that grows as far as possible from the mother plant so as not to damage the root system of the tree, and plant it. Keep in mind that it makes sense to propagate with shoots only a root-bearing apricot, since in grafted trees the root shoots give a non-varietal graft, and stock. Seed propagation of apricot.

For those who are interested in experiments, we offer to get acquainted with the rules of seed reproduction of apricot. The dignity of a tree grown from the seed of a self-fertile apricot is resistant to climate.

The bones are washed, filled with water for a day, thrown away those that surfaced, and the rest are planted into the ground wet to a depth of 6 cm in the beginning or middle of autumn. With a later landing, the bones can immediately be taken away by rodents. On top of the beds sprinkled with humus and grass and keep them all the time in the wet state. You can plant apricot seeds in the middle of spring, but then in the autumn they should be folded into a box of sand and placed in the refrigerator for the whole winter. Shoots covered with plastic bottles with a cropped neck. Care for young seedlings includes watering, loosening the soil, weeding and dressing. In September, the grown seedlings are transplanted to a permanent place. Grafting apricot.

Apricot, home plum, peach, bitter almond and cherry plum seedlings are used as a stock for grafting. Before you plant an apricot, you need to decide which tree you want to end up with. Grafting on almonds and peaches gives an apricot with low frost resistance, and grafting on a stock of apricots, plums and cherry plums allows you to grow trees of average endurance against cold weather. As for size, apricots grow the highest on the roots of Mirabelle, cherry plum and peach, medium-grown - on the rootstocks of unvaccinated apricot, Hungarian plums and almonds, and grafting on the turn makes it possible to grow semi-dwarf trees and dwarf trees, which are easy to care for and easily to harvest

As a stock, two-year-old seedlings with a trunk thickness of at least 8 mm are used. The best time to vaccinate is April or May, when the sap flow in apricot is the strongest. The simplest method of grafting is copulation - it is used when the graft and stock are the same thickness. The stock is cut at a height of 7 cm from the surface, then on the graft and stock make the same oblique cuts, apply the cuts to each other, cover with garden pitch and tightly wrap with tape or tape. If the diameters are slightly different, use the method of one-sided copulation, and if the stock is much thicker than the scion, use the method of grafting for the bark. Diseases of apricot

Apricots are affected by such diseases as moniliosis, Valsa mushroom, verticillis, blast, smallpox, tape mosaic and viral wilt.

Moniliosis first infects the flowers, from which they wither, then the fungus moves to the shoots, leaves, and then to the branches, which are covered with cracks as a result of the development of the disease. Apricot dries.

Ways of struggle. In the phase when the buds are still green, process the tree with a 3% Bordeaux liquid. During flowering, use the drug Teldor against moniliasis. After flowering, treat with Chorus. During the period of fruit ripening twice at an interval of 10 days, spray the tree with a solution of 5 g of the preparation Switch in 10 liters of water, spend the second treatment two weeks before harvesting.

Klyasterosporiosis, or perforated spotting, forms brown spots on the leaves of a plant, which gradually turn into holes. Spots also appear on the shoots, then cracks form on them, and gum flows from the cracks. Places affected by the disease become ugly.

Ways of struggle. In early spring and autumn, after the leaves fall, the apricot is treated with a one-percent solution of copper sulfate or a 4% Bordeaux liquid. In rainy summer, apricot will have to be sprayed every two weeks. Instead of these drugs in the phase when the green buds turn pink, you can use Chorus.

Valsa fungus is an infectious disease that leads to the formation of growths, orange-colored ulcers.

Ways of struggle. To avoid infection, do not prune trees during the resting period. Make sure that the soil in the circle of the circle is always loose. Wood treatment is carried out with a solution of 10 g of the drug Switch in 10 liters of water. Intervals between treatments 7-10 days, but the last spraying spend no later than two weeks before harvest. You can use fungicidal spray. And be sure to sterilize instruments before cutting.

Verticillary wilting leads to yellowing of the leaves of the lower part of the tree, the top remains green. The fungus accumulates in the petioles and veins of the leaves, from which it enters the soil and infects other, usually young, plants.

Ways of struggle. Avoid over-wetting the soil, and do not grow plants of the family Solanaceae and strawberries near the apricot. As a preventive measure, in the spring and after the leaf fall, process the apricot with two percent solutions of Bordeaux liquid, Topsin-M, Previkur, Fundazole or Vitaros. How grow apricot in the garden

Smallpox is a viral disease that forms hollow brown stripes and spots on apricot fruits. The flesh around the spots becomes dry. Fruits ripen ahead of time, their taste leaves much to be desired.

Viral wilting. It can be determined by the fact of the blooming of apricot leaves during its flowering. Light green spots appear on the leaves, the leaf plate thickens and curls. In the resulting fruit, the flesh around the bone darkens and dies. The disease is usually transmitted during vaccination.

Ribbon mosaic is also a viral disease that manifests itself with yellow stripes on the leaves, gradually turning into a lace pattern. Affected leaves die off.

Ways to combat viral diseases. Cure viral diseases can not. Therefore, it is important not to get sick with them. Planting and caring for apricots should be strictly according to the rules. Plant only healthy planting material, use the tip of the shoot as a scion. Keep the site clean and health trees. Immediately destroy harmful insects that may be carriers of viral diseases. When cutting and grafting, use only sterile instruments. Treat the apricot with lime and copper sulfate. Apricot Pests

It cannot be said that apricot suffers so much from pests, but we will acquaint you with those of them that are most often plagued by this culture.

Aphid is an omnipresent insect sucking sap from plants, from which they weaken. As a result, a sooty mushroom can live on the leaves of the apricot, feeding on the waste of aphids. In addition, it is aphid that most often carries viruses for which there is no cure. Destroy aphids by treating the wood with soap solutions of tobacco or ash. If your efforts are not crowned with success, you can always resort to Aktellik or Karbofos.

Moth is a small butterfly, wintering in a cocoon in the upper soil layer or in the cracks of the trunk. In the first decade of June, the moth flies out and lay eggs on the petioles of the leaves and in the ovaries of the fruit. In the second half of summer, the second generation of the pest appears and lays eggs. The autumn and spring preventive processing of apricot gives good results in the fight against the crop moth. In addition, it is necessary to regularly loosen the soil in the ring wheel, as well as to treat the shtamb and the base of skeletal branches with lime with the addition of copper sulfate.

The butterfly caterpillar damages the leaves and buds of the apricot, gnawing holes in them. It is collected mechanically during the season, and in the fall it is necessary to remove the haws, wrapped in twisted leaves, from the trees and destroy the clutches of eggs.

The worm is its caterpillars, waking up after wintering in the bark of a tree or in the top layer of soil, actively eat the leaves and buds of apricot, then pupate, and in July butterflies appear, laying eggs on the shoots and leaves of the tree. The fight against the leafworm and its caterpillars is carried out by treating the stem and the base of the skeletal branches with a concentrated solution of Chlorophos after harvesting and in the spring, as soon as the temperature is air will reach 15 ºC.

Diseases and pests of apricot are not so numerous, but it is better that they do not exist at all. This can be achieved by cleaning the garden every fall, burning plant residues, digging up the soil in the tree wheel and not neglecting spring and autumn preventive treatments. Apricot Varieties Apricot varieties for the Moscow region.

In Ukraine, apricots grow in every yard, on the streets, along roads and in plantings. They bear fruit every year, although many of them never knew pruning and did not feed. And in the Moscow region apricot tree is not such a frequent phenomenon, because in the climatic conditions of the Moscow region apricot requires constant care, and not every variety of this crop is suitable for growing in this area. What varieties are adapted to the conditions of the Moscow region? - Red-cheeked - fruitful, winter-hardy, disease-resistant and self-fertile apricot variety with a rounded sprawling crown and large ovate or rounded flat fruits weighing up to 50 g of a golden-orange color with a bright blush. The peel of the fruit is thin, the pulp is aromatic, light orange, sweet with a slight sourness. The fruits are intended for fresh consumption, as well as for the preparation of compotes, jams and dried fruits. - Honey - fruitful, very cold-resistant tall variety with a spreading crown. The fruits of this variety are medium-sized, equilateral, yellow in small red dots. Fruit pubescence is weak. The flesh is yellow, dense, fibrous and sweet. Fruits are used for food and home preparations. - Triumph of the North is a high-yielding, disease-resistant variety with large oval fruits weighing up to 55 g of yellow-orange color with a slight prostration on the shady side. The skin is of medium thickness, with pubescence. The flesh is orange with a uniform consistency, very pleasant to the taste. - Hardy - frost-resistant, self-fertile, disease-resistant variety of high and stable yields. The tree is large, fruiting begins at 5-6 year after planting. Apricot fruits are medium in size, rounded flat, weighing up to 45 g, golden orange in color with a bright red blush. Peel with pubescence. The pulp is aromatic, bright orange, very sweet. Stone separates easily. - Snegirek is the best apricot in terms of winter hardiness with a height of only one and a half meters. The variety has a high yield, self-fertility, unpretentiousness to the composition of the soil, but it has the disadvantage of instability to leaf spot and moniliosis. Fruits are elastic, with proper storage capable of lying until the middle of winter. Rich apricot harvest in the garden Early varieties of apricot.

Today there are more than fifty varieties of apricot ordinary domestic and foreign selection. In terms of ripening, they are divided into three groups. The first group - early apricots, ripening in early July - are represented by the following varieties: - Melitopol Early - a disease-resistant winter-hardy variety with a high pyramidal crown and large fruits weighing up to 60 g of oval, slightly flattened shape, yellow-orange in color. The skin of the fruit is thin, the pulp is fragrant, dense, without fibers, sweet taste; - Leskore is an early maturing variety of Czech breeding with a high reverse pyramidal crown and medium-sized fragrant fruit weighing up to 45 g of a pleasant taste. The only drawback of the variety is the susceptibility to the disease moniliosis; - Alesha is a productive winter-hardy variety with rounded bright yellow fruits in a red dot. Fruit weight is not more than 20 g. The flesh is orange, sweet and sour; - Voronezh Early - a hybrid of the Central Asian variety Akhrori and the Michurin variety Tovarishch. The earliest dessert, partially self-fertile variety of medium winter hardiness with small fruits weighing up to 20 g. The fruits are sweet with a slight sourness, the bone well lags behind the pulp; - Early Morden - Canadian frost-resistant variety, starting regular and abundant fruiting from the second year. The fruits of this apricot are of medium size, weighing up to 50 g with orange pulp, which is not very sweet, but easily moving away from the stone;

In addition to the described, early-maturing varieties include Sambursky Early, Tsarsky, Iceberg, June, Alliance, Early Marusicha, Chervnevy, Veteran of Sevastopol. How and when to cut apricot Mid-season varieties.

These apricots ripen by mid or late July. The most popular of mid-season varieties include: - Polessky large-fruited - resistant to fungi, fruitful, winter-fast skoroplodny variety with a rounded crown and bright orange with a red blush fragrant, tender, sour-sweet fruits weighing up to 55 g. Despite the average height of the tree, the crop will have to be removed from stepladder; - Pineapple is a widely known, unpretentious and high-yielding early ripening variety with a sparse crown and large, tasty, sweet fruits. Sometimes trees of this variety are affected by spotting. Fruits are used both in fresh form and as preserves, jams and compotes; - Rattles - a partially self-fertile variety of universal use with roundish-oval fruits of a greenish-yellow color slightly compressed from the sides without a blush. The flesh is orange-yellow, dense and sweet. The stone is easily separated from the pulp; - Kuibyshev Jubilee - resistant to fungi, winter-hardy and drought-resistant variety with medium-sized, slightly flattened orange fruits with a small blush on the sunny side. Fruit weight is not more than 25 g. Peel is thin, the flesh is orange, slightly fibrous, juicy, sour-sweet; - Dessert - winter-hardy productive variety with a lush crown. Fruits of medium size weighing up to 30 g, light yellow color, sour-sweet taste. The peel of the fruit is thin, the flesh is tender.

Middle-ripe also include Botsadovsky, Zaporozhets, Shalamark, Sardonyx, Sheludko, Dessertny, Reliable, Michurinets, Yaltynets, Amursky, Aquarius, Monastyrsky, Molodezhniy, Aviator, Petrel, Phelps, Olympus, Altair. Harvested ripe apricots Late varieties of apricot.

Some varieties of apricot ripen in August, when summer is ending. Late-ripening apricot varieties include: - Favorite - winter-hardy variety with medium-sized shiny orange round fruits weighing up to 30 g with dense, juicy orange flesh of the highest palatability. They are consumed fresh and make them their blanks for the winter; - The spark is a winter-hardy, productive and resistant to some diseases, a variety that early comes into fruiting with asymmetrical orange fruits in red dots and a pink blush. Fruit weight up to 45 g. Medium-density pulp, juicy with a sweet-sour taste; - Krasny Kiev - a winter-hardy, self-infertile variety ripening in the second decade of August, requiring pollinators, with large broad-oval fruits weighing up to 55 g of an intensely yellow color and a sour-sweet taste. Fruits are eaten fresh, canned and dried; - The light is a winter-hardy variety with a sprawling crown and a flat-rounded orange fruit weighing up to 25 g with a thick bright red blush covering almost the entire fruit. The pulp is thick, sweet, red-orange, the bone is easily separated; - Success is one of the most winter-hardy hybrids obtained from the varieties Lewise, Comrade and Best Michurinsky with round yellow fruits of medium size weighing up to 30 g in reddish points on the sunny side. The flesh is yellow-amber, sour-sweet, medium juiciness. Stone from the pulp goes well. The variety is self-fertile.

Other late ripening varieties include Siren, Kostiuzhensky, Denisyuk Special, Kompotny, Present, Surprise and Joy.

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