Greenhouse how to plant correctly video

Date: 16.10.2018, 02:20 / View: 62343

Spathiphyllum is a non-capricious plant, but sometimes it delivers trouble to its owner. Errors in the care immediately affect the condition of the leaves of spathiphyllum. They may turn black, yellow, discolor, lose turgor. All these symptoms clearly indicate problems in agricultural engineering that need to be addressed in order to restore decorativeness and plant health.

Content Symptom number 1. Spathiphyllum turns black tips of leaves

Flower growers often ask why the tips of the leaves turn black and dry at the spathiphyllum. Let's try to figure it out. Reason # 1. Dry air

In this case, the tips dry up quite a bit - literally 1-2 mm. At the same time, the rest of the leaf plate remains green or, in the border zone with blackening, acquires a yellowish tint. In this way, the tips of the leaves dry on the spathiphyllum when grown in normal residential conditions. This phenomenon is especially pronounced in winter, with heating turned on.  Spathiphyllum: the tips of the leaves turn black due to dry air The reason for the dry tips of the leaves of Spathiphyllum is dry air

What to do?

To minimize the appearance of black tips of spathiphyllum, one should increase the humidity of the air near the pot with the plant. For this it is recommended: spray the spathiphyllum 2 times a day with warm defended water; put a spathiphyllum near the aquarium; put a spathiphyllum pot on a pallet with wet expanded clay; use a humidifier (the most effective means). Reason number 2. Bay

In this case, the spathiphyllum blackens and dries the leaves a little differently. The defect affects wider areas and affects part of the leaf plate. The blackening zone is limited from the normal part of the leaf plate by a narrow yellow rim. Spathiphyllum: leaves dry after the gulf Such spots "speak" about the gulf and heavy, non-hygroscopic soil

What to do?

Blackening only the tips of the leaves suggests that the spathiphyllum is watered too often, but the roots do not rot yet. In this case, the help of the flower will be in the adjusted mode of watering.

Some flower growers decide on watering only when the leaves of the spathiphyllum wilt and outwardly look preserved. Sometimes this happens when the soil is almost completely dry in a pot! However, for a spathiphyllum, such seemingly cruel drying is in the order of things. It is necessary to water it and in an hour all the leaves will restore the turgor. At the same time, irrigation regime with constant severe drying is not the recommended option. That is, sometimes this can be done, but not systematically. This is bad for the soil and small suction roots, which can die off. Ideally, the spathiphyllum should be watered after the soil has dried on 1/3 - 1/4 of the pot height. Symptom number 2. Spathiphyllum leaves dry around the edges, black drying spots appear in the central part of the leaf plate. Reason №1. Bay

Dark black or brown spots on the spathiphyllum usually indicate a significant gulf that accompanies the plant for a long time. Most likely, the flower is watered too often and at the bottom of the pot, near the roots, there is a permanent swamp. It is not surprising that in this situation the roots begin to rot, which causes the spathiphyllum to turn black leaves. Spathiphyllum leaves turn black around the edges at bay In a heavy bay, the spathiphyllum leaves are covered with dark spots along the edges

What to do?

To begin, adjust the watering (for the recommended watering mode, read in the previous paragraph). If the spots continue to spread to a larger number of leaves or grow in size, it is necessary to inspect the roots and, if necessary, treat the detected rot. This can be done as follows: Remove the spathiphyllum from the pot. Rinse the roots in water (in a bucket of water), gently freeing them from the old earth. Inspect the roots for rot. Rotten roots - yellowish or brown, soft; healthy roots are white, dense. Cut off all rotten roots with a clean knife until healthy tissue. Slices - powder powdered activated charcoal or cinnamon. Leave the plant for 2-3 hours to dry. Plant spathiphyllum in a new, light earth with the addition of activated carbon (for the prevention of rotting slices). Immediately do not need to water! The land from the parquet is initially damp, this is enough to support the vital activity of the “amputated” roots. After 2-3 days, when the new soil dries out, pour the transplanted spathiphyllum with warm settled (ideally - boiled) water with the addition of "Kornevina". Reason number 2. Root cooling

The spathiphyllum may turn black leaves from "wet" cooling. Suppose if you watered the plant in the evening, and at night it got colder and the roots froze. Spathiphyllum: leaves dry when the roots are cooled "Wet" cooling of the roots of the spathiphyllum leads to the appearance of brown and yellow spots on the leaf plate

What to do?

Try not to make that mistake again. Remove the spathiphyllum from the cold window-sill and do not water it in the evening. In order to quickly put the plant in order, spray it with Epin - a stressful adaptogen that will help overcome adverse factors and increase the immunity of the spathiphyllum. Reason number 3. Overfeeding fertilizer (burn)

When burns from fertilizer spots on the leaves of spathiphyllum appear quickly. Literally overnight, after watering with excess fertilizer, extensive brown or black areas appear on the leaves. After that, the whole leaf turns yellow and dies. Spathiphyllum leaves dry from overfeeding with fertilizers Spots from fertilizer burns or chemical stimulants

What to do?

If you suspect fertilizer overfeeding, you need to act quickly. Spathiphyllum roots should be washed in clean water and transplanted into a new soil. Symptom number 3. Spathiphyllum turns yellow

Often, the spathiphyllum leaves turn yellow, and massively. This is very spoils the decorative appearance of the flower. Let's try to understand each specific situation. Reason # 1. Direct sunlight, sunburn

Spathiphyllum respects so-called penumbra. That is a large amount of diffused light, without direct sunlight. If you put a spathiphyllum pot, for example, on a southern or south-western window-sill, then you can soon see that its leaves have lost a saturated green color, have burnt out. Bleached leaves turn yellow and even turn white.

If the sun's rays were not only bright, but also hot, sunburn is possible. In this case, the yellowing is spotted or streaked. And the burned parts become thinned, similar to parchment. Spathiphyllum turns yellow on south windows On south windows, spathiphyllum leaves turn yellow or turn white from high light intensity

What to do?

If your spathiphyllum has turned yellow from excessive illumination, it must be rearranged to a darker place, without direct sunlight. For spathiphyllum suitable sills of the north, north-east, north-west, east orientation. If all the windows in your apartment are sunny, not scary. Place the spathiphyllum at some distance from the window, in the back of the room, to reduce the intensity of illumination. Reason number 2. Lack of trace elements, chlorosis

When fasting spathiphyllum leaves turn yellow unevenly. For example, a “mosaic” color appears, that is, green spots remain on a yellow background or vice versa. Veins become discolored or, on the contrary, veinlets remain green, and the sheet plate turns yellow. Yellowing of the leaves against a green vein is a manifestation of iron chlorosis. All other non-uniform yellowing may be associated with a lack of various trace elements, in particular boron, calcium. Spathiphyllum leaves turn yellow with chlorosis A lack of iron and other trace elements affects the leaves of the spathiphyllum. They turn yellow and become patchy.

What to do?

Yellow Spathiphyllum on the background of fasting is easy to eliminate with the help of dressings and soil enrichment. You must do the following: Transplant spathiphyllum into a new, light, loose soil. The reaction of the soil is slightly acid. Spray the plant with iron chelate - when diagnosing iron chlorosis or with complex fertilizer containing trace elements (boron, calcium, iron) - with a general lack of useful substances. 2-3 weeks after transplantation - to feed the spathiphyllum with complex fertilizer. All this time, water the plant with well separated or boiled warm water, spray it with water 2 times a day. Reason number 3. Leaf aging

If the spathiphyllum turns yellow lower leaves, this is a natural process that does not require any intervention. Old leaves perish, new ones will come to replace them. Yellowing can be considered a problem only if the process covers the young leaves. Symptom number 4. Wadding leaves spathiphyllum

If the sheets of Spathiphyllum have crouched and hung like cloths, you need to take immediate action. This symptom indicates that the roots of the plant do not receive moisture. Reason # 1. Peresushka earthen coma

This is the most common reason. Spathiphyllum withers when the potted soil is dry and requires watering. Spathiphyllum has withered from the drying of the soil This spathiphyllum needs urgent watering!

What to do?

To the leaves of Spathiphyllum regain turgor, it is enough to water the plant. In some cases, if the soil is too dry or peat is used as a soil, a simple top irrigation may not have the effect. Then it is recommended to pour the soil on top, as usual, and then immerse the plant pot in a saucepan (bucket, basin) with water for 15-20 minutes. Reason number 2. Heterogeneous soil

It happens that after watering the leaves are restored for a while, and then fade again. Despite the fact that the soil looks wet! This means that the roots of the plant, located inside the pot, are in a dense, non-hygroscopic clump of soil that cannot be wetted with ordinary watering. Such a nuisance happens if, after the purchase, the spathiphyllum was transplanted into a new floral soil while preserving the storey peat substrate on the roots. Such a substrate dries very quickly and turns into an impenetrable coma. At the same time, the new flower soil in which the transplant was performed retains water well and remains wet after watering. But the water does not reach the roots, since a dry lump of peat is kept on them.

What to do?

So that the leaves no longer wither, storey soil will have to be removed. To do this, rinse the roots in water and carefully remove from them lumps of peat. After that, transplant the spathiphyllum into a uniform light soil. Reason number 3. Root decay

Root rot due to the bay. In this case, the leaves wither the same way as when overdrying. With the only difference that when drying it is enough to shed the ground so that the roots absorb moisture and the leaves are restored. When roots decay, watering will no longer help; on the contrary, it will aggravate the situation: the leaves will wither with a vengeance.

Sign of roots rotting: the potted soil is constantly wet, despite the fact that watering was carried out for a long time. The rotting roots do not absorb moisture from the soil, respectively, the plant is sick, does not receive water and nutrients. Unfortunately, root rot is an insidious disease that is not always quickly diagnosed. The novice florist, having seen that the spathiphyllum has withered, is likely to start watering him more and more. Until the flower is completely ruined! Spathiphyllum withered - rotting of the roots If after the gulf the soil was not dried and an inexpressible swampy layer formed at the bottom of the pot, then the Spathiphyllum is doomed to rotting of the roots

What to do?

With a diagnosed rotting of the roots, transplant the spathiphyllum into a new land with preliminary cutting of all rotting parts of the root. A transplant can be performed as follows: Remove the spathiphyllum from the pot. Rinse the roots in water (in a bucket of water), gently freeing them from the old earth. All rotten roots cut with a clean knife to a healthy tissue. Slices - powder powdered activated charcoal or cinnamon. Leave the plant for 2-3 hours for drying out Plant spathiphyllum in a new, light earth with the addition of activated carbon (for the prevention of rotting slices). Be sure to pour a good layer of drainage (at least 2-3 cm) on the bottom of the pot to prevent stagnant water in the lower part of the roots. There should be drainage holes in the bottom of the pot (if there are not enough of them, do a few more with a nail or a heated screwdriver). Immediately do not need to water! The land from the parquet is initially damp, this is enough to support the vital activity of the “amputated” roots. After 2-3 days, when the new soil dries out, pour the transplanted spathiphyllum with warm settled (ideally - boiled) water with the addition of Kornevin. Symptom number 5. Spathiphyllum does not grow

Spathiphyllum does not increase the green mass: does not release new leaves, does not give shoots. Reason # 1. Big pot

Remember that at first spathiphyllum builds up the root system, and then begins to engage in leaves. Therefore, if you have transplanted a plant into a too large pot, you will have to wait until the root system grows and envelops a clod of earth. Only after that will the growth of green mass begin. Spathiphyllum is not growing - a big pot Such a pot is too large for a young spathiphyllum. Need a transplant!

What to do?

If you do not want to wait for several months, you will have to transplant the spathiphyllum into a smaller pot - 1-2 cm more in diameter than the root system. Reason number 2. Improper lighting

Spathiphyllum can retard in growth with too intense or, conversely, poor lighting.

What to do? Relocate the spathiphyllum to a well-lit place, without direct sunlight. Symptom number 6. Spathiphyllum does not bloom

Under suitable conditions of upkeep, the spathiphyllum may bloom 2-3 times a year. But the expectation does not always become a reality. And then the question arises: "Why does not the spathiphyllum bloom?" There may be several reasons for this. Reason # 1. Too big pot

Spathiphyllum will begin flowering only after its roots are completely entwined with an earthen ball in a pot. Therefore, if you have transplanted the plant into a pot of not size, you can wait for flowering for several years.

What to do?

Pick up a new pot for spathiphyllum. For this representative of the aroid family, close, low pots are suitable. In diameter - 1-2 cm longer than the root system. Reason number 2. Lack of dressings, hunger strike

If the spathiphyllum has not been transplanted for a long time, the soil in the pot was impoverished or did not initially contain the necessary nutrients, flowering can be expected. In addition to the absence of flowering, the hunger strike is also indicated by the general disease state of the plant, yellow or small leaves. There is also another situation: the spathiphyllum looks healthy, releases large green leaves in large quantities and does not bloom. This means that the plant "zhiruet", that is, consumes a large amount of nitrogen, stimulating the growth of green mass to the detriment of flowering. We conclude: in the soil in which the spathiphyllum grows, there is a lot of nitrogen, but there is a lack of the elements responsible for flowering, potassium and phosphorus. Spathiphyllum does not bloom in the absence of complex fertilizing Spathiphyllum may look healthy, “fatten”, but not blossom when there is a large amount of nitrogen in the soil and lack of phosphorus and potassium

What to do?

If the pot in which the spathiphyllum grows is of normal size, and there have not been flowering for a long time - feed it with complex fertilizer with a predominance of phosphorus and potassium (for flowering). For a quick effect, you can apply spraying stimulants - "Bud", "Domotsvetom", etc. Reason number 3. Lack of lighting

Spathiphyllum is a shade-tolerant plant. The term "shade-tolerant" means that direct sunlight is contraindicated in the plant. But! And a deep shadow is also useless. For spathiphyllum, you need to find a well-lit place with a lot of ambient light. In a full shadow, the spathiphyllum will not bloom.

What to do?

It is necessary to rearrange the spathiphyllum from a deep shadow to a more lighted place. Symptom number 7. Spathiphyllum has green flowers

Some time after the appearance of a new flower, you notice that its pure white initial Does the color take on a green tint? This is how all spathiphyllum behave. In the greenish tones are painted otvetuyuschie coverlets of flowers. Naturally, such a feature does not require any adjustment.


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